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Satyavan-Savitri, Nala-Damayanthi, Sundar-Sangeetha - experiences may vary

If you are not familiar with the stories of Savitri or Damayanthi from the Mahabharata, the short summary is that these are women who went to extraordinary lengths to save their husbands!

Savitri had to go head to head with the god of death, Yama himself, to get her hubby back.

Fast forward to the present day and you have a slightly different version in the Sundar-Sangeetha story. Nope, no debating the god of death, but rather teasing him by dangling the husband like a carrot and going “hi Yama, come see if you can get him! See, I am almost letting you have him!” . Yama tries a few times and cries “sour grapes” or “sour carrots” and walks away.

Where are all these thoughts coming from? They all have to do with our recent visit to the top of Danothri (our nickname for Mt. Dana in Yosemite National park) after our recent trips to Gangothri and Yamunothri.

While Yamunothri was at 10,800 ft and Gangothri was at 11,200 ft, Mt. Dana is at 13,060 ft! We start the hike at 9500 ft! This group hike was planned much much earlier than July. Based on some advice by Sri. Sundararama Deekshidhar (not referring to myself as a joke.. he is my father’s favorite, who does Katha Kalakshebham and is related to Anantharama Deekshidhar) who recited stories last May at my fathers Subha sweekaram (rememberance), there were to be no risky hiking till my dads anniversary ceremonies were complete. We did climb a few mountains in that one year but did not take “risks”. So this one (with its label as a risky hike) was pushed to be post India trip.

Hotels, Driving logistics, food planning, everything was all set well in advance, and the whole group was looking forward to it. Then I ended up in the hospital. My friends were more worried about me making it back to normal and the hike topic was put aside. Did get discharged on a Monday evening and 11 days later we were supposed to be on our way to Yosemite. The rest of the group was suggesting I drop out or at least come for the drive and walk to the till the trail head and maybe go as far as I can go.

That is where the modern Savitri comes in.. Sangeetha decided that the fastest way for her hubby to get back to “normal” was for him to do all the things he is used to doing or supposed to be doing. Five days after discharge, I am signed up to do a 60 day yoga challenge! On day 7, I am hiking PG&E with the group to see if I can have any chance at hike Mt. Dana. Did PG&E without an issue but it was our backyard. There is no challenge as the terrain is so familiar, it is not high altitude and there is a nice trail. It was decided based on my PG&E effort that I will be joining the summit hike for Mt. Dana. They were all trying to be nice and encouraging. All of them wanted me to not miss out and I could tell.

We drove Friday evening to Mono lake area with a few short restroom breaks (all for me!) and checked into our rooms at the Lodge in Lee Vinning. We had a fantastic dinner watching the late sunset. We were also sitting outside to get used to the altitude and oxygen levels.

The next morning we started hiking from the trailhead at 6:30 AM. A group of 9 (We had a friend join our gang of 8.. even though he didn’t know the rest of the group, he fit right in!). A mile in, one of our group members made a wise decision to go back as it was not easy to breathe. We had come up a ~1000 feet at that point. Everyone looked at me, then San gave me a look, and I kept walking.

Three hours later, we were 1000 ft from the top and again some folks in the group had second thoughts and asked if I want to go down. This time I refused, having made it that far. Just paced myself, pushed through it and made it. Was very happy when I walked up to the top. Gave a short thank you speech (you can see it in the video)

Normally I never use nature for piss breaks but given the recent issue, had to stop a few times to water the bushes. One of my friends even said “let’s go.. you will have company. no need to feel embarrassed!”.

Mt. Dana is a hard hike because there is no trail in most parts. It is just gravel and slippery. There is also ice in places which you cannot really see. On the way down I made it fast. Coming down is somehow easier for me as I can balance well. For the hike we had all packed our own food. I had aaloo sandwiches, two Think bars and two Kind bars which turned out to be more than enough. We came back at 3PM exactly to the parking lot. My legs were shaking and walking in a straight line was tough.

Went back to our room and drank some Emergen-C and that helped immediately. Many of us had a sunstroke like effect when we were at the top. Three of us got severe headaches in just 20 minutes. So we decided to come down right away instead of eating at the summit. There was not much room to sit there at the top anyways! Had a much needed 90 minute nap before we decided to have Chai, followed by an early dinner. Dinner was more home cooked food. The rooms had fridges and microwaves. Dinner tasted great! Thayir sadam with mor-milagai can be amazing after you hike to the summit of Mt. Dana!

San was beaming with pride that I had actually listened to her and made it. I was also happy seeing her so happy. Currently we are having debates (not as serious as the Savitri-Yama debates) on this hike being the starting point for my knee swelling 10 days later, which has made me go back to the hospital. Or is it the fact that I did a few doubles in the Yoga room the following weekend to make up for the missed yoga practice during hikes, or was it walking around all day for two days at the music festival and making the knee worse? Given there is so many “assignable causes”, we have decided to look forward rather than look back and focus on getting the knee fixed ASAP! For the record, it is definitely better now after they drained fluid and gave a steroid shot in the knee, followed by four days of icing and rest.

Truth be told, I was happy that entire weekend hiking, eating, joking around, taking pictures with my favorite people. If anything it lifted my spirits up!

There are tons of photos.. so sharing them in galleries.

This first photo is a collage.. it starts off by San showing me everything I am doing wrong in the approach to the final photo, till she is kind of happy with the end result. Never before has this regular sequence been caught on camera so beautifully. The photographer here is not much different from San. Her hubby runs far away whenever she pulls her camera out. This is par for the course in our hikes for the hubbies.

The views of the landscape are just out of th world throughout the hike. We got to see a few birds, marmots, large spiders. There was absolutely no shade anywhere. The gravel was slippery. We did see a bunch of teenagers hike this with their parents and went “wow”!

A few pano shots..

Now for the galleries..

A video of the drive, the dinner and our hike to the Mt. Dana summit..

Moral of this post: One just needs the right motivation and the right look from the right person to do these hikes!

There was still time after our dinner and the sun hadn’t set yet. So we made plans.. that in the next post..

Alanis Morisette, Traffic jams and a Ganga Aarathi to remember

The previous post in this series is here..

We left Haridwar and reached Rishikesh. MIL was exhausted and said she will stay in the car and drink tea at a local tea stall. The driver told us he will stop and help her. The three of us were given instructions to walk from the main Lakshmanjula road towards the river and once there, walk along the river and see some bridges, see the Ganga Aarathi and then come back.

We walked as instructed, saw the crowd, saw the entire Ganga Aarathi, which was a great experience. Then we walked back with a ganna juice stop for San.

MIL looked refreshed after her rest and chai. Our driver suggested that we go to the hotel after our return, drop luggage before we make it to the end of the road to go cross the lighted Janki Setu bridge and visit temples on the other side. We should have listened to him. We told him we were all tired and would rather be done with all the temple visits before coming back.

We parked in a parking lot near the entrance to the Janki sethu (bridge) and walked across it. Then on the other side we visited two temples where we met our recent friends and family! It was great to catch up again.

We walked back to the car and our driver said the road was jammed and will take one hour to clear at least. The local restaurants had no seating. Everything was full. We left MIL in the car and the three of us walked back to the hotel in crazy jammed traffic. But our luggage was still in the car. My jacket was left loose in the trunk with my passport in the jacket pocket. I was tense and worried that if they open to take out stuff, my jacket and passport fall down. Luckily when the driver showed up with MIL and the luggage the jacket was still on top.

Alanis for some reason came to mind.. had listened to her albums as a grad student a long time ago when her album hit.. raining, traffic jam when your’e already late, India, a few neurons connected and gave me memories of Philadelphia in early 90’s, while at Rishikesh. The brain does funny things..

We were all exhausted after that experience. our hotel was a new hotel and it was fantastic. Sadly we were too late and the restaurant had closed for dinner. Ate an energy bar and went to sleep. The other three had taken some Lassi earlier at the parking lot. Everyone just crashed.

In the morning we had a really nice breakfast at the hotel including idli, vadai etc. The food and service was fantastic.

After the breakfast we got our luggage down and were all set to drive to the Dehradun airport. We met the same family at the airport again. At this point my FIL was going back to Chennai and San/me went with MIL to Mumbai. I had one evening and one day in Mumbai to repack before flying out to the US. Given all the helicopter delay scares, was happy to know that I will make it to Mumbai.

Here are the photos from our Rishikesh leg and back to Dehradun airport. We saw some interesting things in the airport including a Flybrary. You can see it in the pictures and the video.

Photos..

Video highlight reel..

Rishikesh is a vegetarian city. That in itself was an amazing experience. The food was just amazing.

We made it back to Mumbai without event.. Will write about it before I close this series!

Gateway to heaven - Haridwar

The previous post in this series is here..

We had seen Kedarnath in the morning and Badrinath in the evening on day 5 of the Chardham trip (we had a washout fourth day).

The next morning we had to make it to Dehradun. It was our extra buffer day per the travel company but our plan was to go see Haridwar and Rishikesh also (we were not going to come to these parts in a long time, maybe never given our travel and vacation schedules and age!). We were at the Helipad bright and early. However the helicopter did not land.. they came into the valley and turned around. There was black smoke from some forest fire nearby which made flying dangerous.

Again we had to beg the flight co-ordinator along with a bunch of other folks stranded at the helipad. They took us back to Phata and then from Phata to Dehradun. We had to wait for refueling at Phata but all was well. We were to be in Dehradun by 9AM. We made it at 10:30 or so. We had the Thumby folks pick us up from the Sahasradhara helipad and take us to the hotel where our luggage was in cloak room. We were met by the coordinator who thanked us for putting up with the issues and gave us a parting gift (water from all four sites in bottles and a rudraksh necklace). We took it packed it and loaded all our stuff into the trunk of the van my FIl had arranged for the day.

The driver was nice. We told him we wanted to go to Haridwar, then Rishikesh. We were going to spend the night there and leave for the airport the following morning. He said he will do his best.

We were hungry on the way to Haridwar and stopped at a Punjabi Dhaba. The food was divine. My stomach enlarged a few sizes after that meal as it will be obvious from the photos..

Then we were off to Haridwar. There were three places to see. Two devi temples on either side of the freeway which both needed a ropeway ride to go to the top. He told us we might make it through one if lucky. The other must visit place was Hari ki Pauri or the gateway to heaven. the place where the river ganges comes from the mountains and gets to flat terrain. The water flow is very high but they have built nice steps for the thousands of pilgrims to take a dip here.

First we went to the Chandi devi temple. It was well organized. A ropeway to take us up 2000 feet in 7 minutes. A short hike from there to the temple. Then wait for the next ropeway to come down. Wait on either side was 40 minutes which was not bad. Once we made it down, it was extremely hot. This temple told us that the ropeway ticketing for the other temple was closed. There was no point in going there. So we saw the other temple from the freeway and said a prayer and drove on to Hari ki Pauri.

Our driver said “this is the second step to heaven”. My MIL innocently asked “where is the first step? can we go to that too?” and he said “maa ji. First step is heaven itself !!” . We all had a good laugh and made our way to the river. It was extremely crowded but we found a gap to take three dips (me and MIL).

There are two types of people in the world. When someone says “take a dip in this water. Mythology has it that if you take three dips here, heaven is guaranteed!” , some will say “let me get a towel”. Others will say “that damn thing looks too dirty compared to a common sewer. Maybe the germs there will get you to heaven sooner than you want?! I will pass”.. MIL and me are the first type. San and FIL are the second. The towel I got in Gangothri came in very handy!

San and FIL just set foot in the water and sprinkled some water on their forehead. Then we got back to the van and were off to Rishikesh. There was a chance to see Ganga aarthi in Haridwar or Rishikesh. Given our tiredness levels, we just told him to drive to Rishikesh… so we could catch a break and sit down for sometime.

Here are the photos from this leg starting with the morning in Badrinath. Our hotel in Badrinath was also very nice. Photos from this leg..

and a video highlight reel ..

Irony is a terrible thing. Before leaving Chennai for this trip my mom told me that there is going to be some planetary changes end of May early June that will take me to “vera level”. Then there was this Hari ki Pauri dip which was supposed to give me a lot of good as was that tharpanam for dad on Ganga Dusshera.

I landed back in US on June 2nd and my life has taken a nasty turn with multiple hospital visits first for the infection, then for a swollen knee and a lot of sleep deprivation in general and its associated side effects, an abysmal yoga attendance and other exercise by my standards.. if “vera level” is this, I shudder to think what the alternative was!!! At this point just happy to exist.

Will post about Rishikesh next..