social study

Seen one ash buried city, you have seen them all - Pompeii

The previous post in this series is here..

After visiting Herculaneum, I drove in peak traffic to Pompeii. There are a lot of one way roads and once in Pompeii, there was no parking. Finally we found parking. When we got out, San and the kids were tired. It was a 100 F outside and Jr. said she was not feeling well. This was our healthy child ! Was it because of the two hour soak in the sea the previous evening? In any case, they decided to go find a place to eat and message me. Was given one hour from entry to exit in Pompeii. There were a few people in front of me in the line who did not share my sense of urgency and were blocking all lanes in hopes that one of them would get to the counter. The girls whose job it was to order the crowd to the limited ticket counters were useless and just sat there gossipping. Once I got my ticket, I just ran through the entire site. Clicked a few selfies on the way, and followed the crowd all the way to the amphitheater.

The rooms and roads of Pompeii give you the same impression as Herculaneum, but the homes seem not as lavish. Seems to be a larger crowded place. These are some unique things that caught my eye that were different from the previous site. The amphitheater at the end of the site that could house 10,000 people was just amazing as was the gymnasium courtyard. All of it gone in the blink of an eye, thanks to a volcano!

Only 360 pano shot I took in this place standing in the middle of the amphitheater.

A video highlights reel of my run through Pompeii.

When I started coming back, took a weird turn and ended up at a different exit.

I got lost in the end and saw no one for a minute and panicked.. finally two ladies who had a map told me there are multiple entrances to the place and the one where my family stayed back is most likely on the other end of the complex but was a straight 10 minute walk. That saved me..

It is better to do Herculaneum first than Pompeii. Glad I went there first and earlier in the morning. The place gets very hot. Maybe allot more time and do one site in the morning and the other in the evening?! In any case, the photos and videos here tell you the story!

Finally realized that my family had not given me their location because I had no data plan and was in airplane mode! Then found out that they had already finished lunch and were waiting for me at a nice place. They watched me eat a full pizza in record time and we started our walk back to the parking lot. It was a long drive in traffic back to our hotel in Sorrento. Came back to the room, showered again and went down to have some hot tea. Then had to take a power nap before leaving again on yet another adventure!

All said and done, do not miss visiting this site. Just allot more time, take an umbrella and a bottle of water and then roam around at a leisurely pace!

The earth saves some human history - Ercolano - Herculaneum

The previous post in this series is here..

Original plan was to get the car in Naples and use it only to drive to and from airport. We looked at the maps, parking, traffic etc. and realized that in order to save time, it is best to drive to the buried city of Herculaneum first and enter the archeological site as soon as it opens. From there drive to Pompeii and finally drive back to Sorrento to the hotel, change and go to the Kayak starting point.

The morning traffic was surprisingly not bad to Ercolano where the Herculaneum buried village(or town) was. Once there, we missed a turn and ended up in a one way street that was as wide as the car. Pretty much had to fold the mirrors and drive through that lane and make it to a wider lane. Then folks directed us to the right parking spot. It was harrowing.

Nothing compared to what those poor folks felt in 47 AD when they were all buried in ash in a few moments.

Thanks to that event, we get to see what their life was like. The walls, the floors, the amphoras, statutes, frescos, graffiti, everything was just fascinating.

If you ever go to the Amalfi coast do not miss seeing Herculaneum. It may be smaller in size than Pompeii, but the houses and villas are grander. This was the rich peoples area of the time and you can clearly see the difference. By the time we got out of this place the temperatures were already climbing.

Here are some photos.. took me some time to process them in HDR. Knew when I shot them that it will need HDR processing, so did not worry about the light at that time.

some more images..

A long video of this site.. there was so many rooms and I tried capturing 10 second clips of every room or new thing and it all added up to almost 10 minutes!

We got some bottles of water outside the parking lot and made a dash to get to Pompeii after this. We were told to expect long lines everywhere, traffic and a parking nightmare in Pompeii.

So off we went..

The Amalfi coast - Sorrento

The previous post in this series is here..

We reached Naples airport close to 8:30 PM. There was no public transport that would get us to Sorrento. It is an almost two hour drive along windy roads and lots of tunnels, with a lot of mopeds cutting in and out abruptly with no road rules applicable to them. Of course, I found out all this after driving. At the car rental place they asked us to take insurance as most cars get hit. They also told me to take enough pictures of the car in the freaking night to make sure we document all “existing scratches”. Was told that there would be. new ones by the time I return the car. Fortunately I got it back in two days with no additional scratches that I could see in “before vs. after” photos.

The family was proud of my effort to get them to the hotel. It was a large Volkswagen and I made a mental note that driving should be restricted only for the from and to airport. Again was wrong.

The hotel itself was cute. The staff friendly. There was no microwave or hot water but there was someone 24x7 downstairs who could get you that. He was like “I can make you a cappuccino now!” and I said “let me show you how to make Wagh Bakri instant chai with hot water”.. he watched me with an amused smile. The next two days he had hot water ready for me! He was reasonably sure there was something addictive in that chai packet. Once he was busy and he asked his daughter to get me hot water.. think the conversation in Italian was “why water? I can make him a Cappuccino!” and the response was something like “give him his damn water and see what he does with it”.. my broken Italian could only comprehend so much.

Where were we? Ah yes.. we settled into the room past 11 PM. So it was lights out. We had to get ready at 7 AM, have breakfast downstairs (which was really nice) and walk 20 minutes to Sorrento City center for a tour the kids had booked. It was Sorrento Food tours ! The kids took “namakku soru dhaan mukkiyam!” to a new level. We were met outside a local church by our guide Tamara. Turns out she was from the US but has spent the last 15 years there. Our group was the four of us, three folks from Irvine and a young couple from UK. We all made friends quickly thanks to Jr. talking about Irvine and me suddenly talking about Dorset and Blackpool. My family was eye rolling. . “who is this guy and how come we don’t know any of this?”. Tamara started the tour with some “good eats” she had got.. This was second breakfast. I also got a lecture on “if that couple from UK wants to have kids, they will. You don’t have to be the old uncle showing them how great it is to have kids by using this family as an example!” … Apparently I am advertising the value of a large family subliminally.. did not know that! All I asked was “how long have you guys been married? and “do you have any kids?”.

She took us through different restaurants, gave us a lesson on citrus, we had breakfast of sorts (again) at Franco’s. They made us a vegetarian sandwich with their special cheese (it had the Italian equivalent of ISI muththirai). In all my life I have not tasted a cheese sandwich that good ! The kids got 11/10 for this.

There was a good 45 minutes spent at a citrus garden and a private garden and limoncello making place. We got a factory tour.

Then we walked some more and came to a shopping district and the old square. There were chocolate fountains, candy stores. One store had lemon candy which I got hooked to. They checked to make sure that this was the only candy I could eat in that entire store. The manager took allergies seriously. Got myself a large bag of the lemon candy which has a small pocket of lemon juice at its core. Still enjoying it. Then it was time for lunch where they gave us pasta and a local cheese made from buffalo milk that was watery. It was interesting texture wise but very tasty. Then we stopped at Raki, a gelato place. Really good gelato! After this it was a walk to an overlook point and we all went our separate ways. We had gotten a good overview of Sorrento history, food, and the layout of the place.

While we were at lunch San kept getting calls from a local number.. We found out later that she had accidentally booked a kayaking tour same time as the food tour. She begged them to move it by a day and they did, but to the last group of the day.. (more on that later).

We walked by ourselves to see both the local church and cathedral. Then realized our legs were tired and our stomachs were too full. So we waited at a bus stop and took the bus to the stop closest to our hotel. They do have a fantastic public transport system. If you have the time and patience to use it. When you are a tourist, every minute counts!

The people and their pace is all laid back in Sorrento. They act like everyone is going to live past a 100 and there is 48 hours in a day. That somehow goes out the window the minute anyone gets behind a wheel.

Here is the morning and early afternoon in pictures. . .

and more photos.. of narrow streets and churches! Here is a quick lesson as we transition from landscape to portrait format photos.. when you do this food tour, DO NOT have breakfast in the hotel. You will be eating plenty and non stop over the next five hours. Also at Tamara’s request, her brochure is in the pictures below.

While adding the pictures I realized that a few things were missed. If you want to walk down from the top of city center, do it later in the evening. The sunset is just glorious here!

A video highlight reel of the food tour..

We also got a discount coupon for leather goods from our guide at some shops. Weren’t planning on it but on the way out of the shopping area the ladies jumped into a store. The owner was nice and he gave us the discount anyways even though it was not the store we were supposed to go to. Turns out all the leather goods came from Turkey which is considered “authentic” in Sorrento. It was a facepalm moment. We usually don’t buy leather goods. Think they got fake leather. It is time for me to stop questioning choices that are not mine.

There is this funny business of an extra tax that you get back at the airport when you show your passport. That assumes you have time in Naples airport to return the car, run to gate and stop at this counter which has long lines to get back money. So if you shop in Italy, give it time. The procedure to get this back after you have exit the country is painful.

There is one pano shot included in this. Italians were not as amused as Turkish folks when I did a backbend to take that photo in the church. The people who stared at me could definitely use yoga. I was not trying to show off. Wasn’t even wearing my challenge shirt yet.

After all the food and the bus ride and walk back to the hotel, we had time to spend. This was the kids part of the trip. So they wanted to go just “chill” and have a nice dinner locally. It was 3PM.

to be continued..