Patriarchy at its dumbest..

The previous post in this series is here..

Have already mentioned Queen Hatshepsut in detail in the post on Karnak temple's sunrise visit. 

After we left the Valley of the kings and the various tombs, our next stop was the mortuary temple of Queen Hatshepsut, which was way outside the original city. 

San finally takes a moving selfie.. that turned out pretty good!

It was literally carved into a mountainside with three visible levels and chambers and corridors that went six deep (when I zoomed in with my iPhone through a restricted gate).

This is one of the few places you can see her beautiful face carved as is without a Pharoh's fake beard and head dress. 

She went to the land of Punt and got back a lot of interesting plants, animals and riches by trading. They are currently guessing that this is somewhere in Somalia or in the Indian ocean as warm water fishes are portrayed in the murals. you can see it in the video highlight.

the usual kings and gods at the entrance.. here she has the fake beard in place..

The temple itself was beautiful but it pained us to see most of her relief on the wall carvings chiseled out completely. Not sure exactly who did this. They think her stepson did it. No matter who did it, it was a dumb move to not celebrate this lady and her accomplishments. 

You see the typical murals of the various gods blessing what was once Hatshepsut's carving.. 

This temple is a good 1/2 mile or more in from the ticket gate and they do have a golf cart service to take us to the ramp that goes up to the temple entrance. 

There are side temples for the jackal headed god Anubis, the godess Hathur and their most beloved giver of live, Amun Ra. We went in and out of those hallways and sanctums in 30 minutes. 

Again when we came out, there was a market and you had to go through it to get to the parking lot for vans. We were back on the road. It was getting tight to squeeze everything in.

A video highlight..

Thousands of years.. the pharoh's are gone. their gold is gone.. their mummies and tombs and temples mostly destroyed.. a few preserved with great luck.. but male chauvinism and keeping women down... that survives the ages!

Did I say the clock was ticking.. We still had three stops before the airport..

Women rock!

The previous post in this series is here..

This day was going to be a busy one. We had been warned. There were three things to cover as part of the tour and two things we added to the list before being dropped at the airport.

We woke up at 4:30 and got ready. Our bags were packed and the porters got it to the van. The amount of offering to the porters was predetermined just like the offerings to various gods during temple visits. We complied. The porter gods smiled on us. The suitcase with the broken wheel had made it this far. 

It was a special day. One of two days the sunrise is smack dab in the middle of the square hole in Karnak temple. This used to be a big festival in olden days. The Egyptian locals made it a festival again for tourist purposes. We made it in through security and the German language tour was still wrapping up. 

there were a few hundred people blocking our view and I had no chance. Still held my camera up to take a timelapse and was hit in the ribs a few times by jostling tourists. Did what I could..(you can see it in the video)

The sun did its glorious thing without making a fuss. We started walking through the temple once it was up. 

Had to increase the shadow lighting to get this image. those stories on the walls with the sun rising between them is marketing genius. Makes it look like the Sun is approving the story!

The night tour with the sound and light show did not do justice to the magnificence of the temple. They also did not cover enough about Queen Hatshepsut and how she rebuilt this place and started lighting up the temple, brought the two gold tipped obelisks to Luxor, etc. etc. 

This women had done more good for Egypt's people than all those Pharoh's before her put together. It was not about the kings and gods.. It was about improving the lives of citizens. She got that!

However her step son who later became king worked hard to erase her from Egyptian memory. A female ruler blessed by Egyptian gods did not fit their narrative. So within a generation, it was erased in mainstream media of the time. However thanks to shifting sands and the Romans and others who didn't care who ruled what when, some of her legacy has been preserved.

Walid took us to a special spot where the sunbeams come down in a dark chamber..it was scary to walk to the center as we didn't know where the ground was. Should have been challenging for folks to build the place!

A candid shot of us trying to stop the photographer from continuous clicking. Walid was filling up my memory by taking 25 shots a minute!

This temple at Karnak used to be all color. There is still some color on the pillars that has survived millenia and it is just amazing. When we imagine non faded colors on pillars and ceilings this size, one can only wonder!

As a Mylapore kid who was awestuck by Kapaleeshwar temple when my mom or grandpa would take me there, it still holds a special place in my heart after 50 years. Now imagine what a walk through this temple in all its colored glory would have meant to kids in those days!

Maybe the Egyptian government should think about restoring at least a small section of this temple to the original colors (if they can figure out what pigments were used and how to color them in the past!) and let us get a true sense of this awesomeness!

This is yet another place that has to be seen to be believed. If you are making plans to visit Luxor, try to be there on the Winter solstice and watch the sunrise at Karnak! It is true the sun rises every day and keeps moving, but a temple built thousands of years ago to align the sunrise to the solitice is worth watchng! A lot of science and engineering went into this!

Granite is not an easy stone to carve or carry! 

A few HDR shots..

A video highlight of the Karnak temple visit..

The grand finale from the night's sound and light show was a focus on the statue around which people would walk counter clockwise 7 times for luck..

We enjoyed this temple complex thoroughly. After this on our way out we got some tea/ coffee at a restaurant / gift shop which was very nice.

Then we went back out to the van. It was time for the next stop which was supposed to be yet another highlight! 

A billion dollar GEM!!

The previous post in this series is here..

After eating lunch in a moving van, we crossed the Nile again with the ladies singing "Nile nadiya" song.. which I thought was hilarious.

There was a soft opening of the new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) which we were lucky to visit. The entry ticket was 60 bucks but it was totally worth it. 

They spent a Billion dollars on this museum so far and we were told it might be 3 Billion by the time all the exhibits move in. There were already 15000 pieces in display with entire sections being worked on.

If the Egyptian museum in Cairo blew us away, I have no words to describe what we saw here. The tracks on the museum all radiate from a central point at the bottom of the valley and the museum literally climbs the hill to be level with the Giza plateau. When you reach the top of the escalators, you see the pyramids! 

The museum sections weave across society, kings and power and culture while time is the vertical track. You can trace things in sections horizontally or vertically. For a modern museum, extremely well thought out and organized.

It would take a person like me at least a week in this museum. We had 2  1/2 hours. So we had a bright history student who guided us through this expertly in 2 hours! 

There is a reflective pool of shallow water around this giant statue that is so amazing that some of us didn't realize it was water.. Indraprastha came to mind!

the facade of the museum gives you a Louvre reminder, inside and out..

usually I post pictures before video.. this time it is video before pictures.

We saw a lot of intersting displays.. the women were drawn to the jewelry.. the kids to the lunch boxes, dice and play toys from 3000 years ago..

while we keep hearing about the Romans in Egypt, I did not know Alexander's influence here.

Then we became fans of queen Hutshepsut !! 

The best ruler of Egypt was a woman who prefered trade based relationship with neighbors instead of wars and provocation. Yet after her rule, most of her statues were defaced and she was not on many records (as King Tut) in subequent historic accounts of the king's lineages and lists. 

Now we don't see women outside in Egypt! The world turns.. hopefully it gets better.. but after going to all these museums, I have lost hope on what humanity can do with or without technology. As a collective we are just animals wearing pants and shirts.. Maybe if women took over the world, it will be a better place. As long as men are in charge, we are doomed in the long run! That is the thought that keeps resonating after the multiple museum visits (Same story in Austria in the 1800's with Maria Teresa from another recent trip to a European museum!)

You should absolutely not miss this museum if you visit Egypt. Just fantastic. 

We had 45 minutes before we were to be dropped off at our hotel.  We stopped by a Papyrus place where a Mr. Khan gave us a demo of how papyrus was made today still the same way it was 3500 years ago and how it is stil being painted the same way.  Unfortunately I was so engrossed in his demo (and tired) that it was not recorded. We did buy a tree of life on Papyrus and got our names written in Heiroglyph's (you can see it in the end of the video). 

We decided to spend as much time at this place and there was no dinner stop. Decided to eat the leftovers from lunch for dinner. We were already told that pickup for the next day will be at 4:15AM to go to the airport! There was a collective sigh from everyone. So we literally went up, packed and crashed. 

It has taken 4 blog posts, going over ~400 photos and videos just to cover day 1 in Egypt. When we travel we cover as much as possible in as short a time. No wonder our kids decided they would rather stay home than do these 3:30 AM wake ups and going to airports at 4:30AM etc.. 

We were still jet lagged. So it was lights out as soon as we hit the bed!