A slow day in Petra

The previous post in this series is here..

We woke up at 3:30 AM and drove to Cairo Airport from our hotel. Then caught a flight to Amman. There was a pre-paid Visa (thanks to Latif) which we had to get and then clear Immigration and customs. It was a decent airport but the smoking room door was wide open! So the whole area smelled of cigarette smoke. I went to the restroom and found cigarette butts in the toilet. 

This cannot be happening was my first thought. It was an international airport for crying out loud! Came out of that area and once we were out of the airport away from people, took a few deep breaths to calm down. 

We met our driver and guide Zaid. Between him and Ala, our other driver, they were going to drive and guide us for the Jordan leg of the tour. Not all of us could get on the same flight. So six of us made it on a 6:30 flight and the other two were on a 8 AM flight. Given our rest stop break, they made it to Petra within an hour after we reached. 

Most of the folks dozed off during the three hour drive. I was trying to stay up and take videos and also talk to Zaid to understand the area. 

Once we reached Petra, we were all hungry so we went straight to a restaurant suggested by our guides called "My Mom's recipe restaurant". It was walking distance from our hotel and the Petra site entrance and Museum.

The rooftop restaurant was well decorated and cozy!

 

Mom's recipe apparently included too much salt. The lentil soup was good but very salty. The rest of the food was amazing. They had a lot of veggie options. There was even french fries in the menu!

After all of us ate, we went and checked into the Le Maison Hotel. We all got a 2 hour nap. 

We started for the Museum at 4PM. It was a really quiet and nice museum. It was all self explanatory. We spent an hour in the museum, then took pictures outside as the sun started to set. Most of the museum is covered in the video.. I also thought some of the museum claims on plaques were exaggerated..

The first two pics were taken before we went into the museum.. the next two after we came out an hour later..

golden hour makes such a difference..

This was followed by some shopping in the stores next to the museum. We were debating having dinner at one of the other places when we saw that the menus were identical with slightly higher prices. So it was decided that we go back to the rooftop at Mom's recipe in hopes that mom uses less salt for dinner.

Turns out Mom is consistant and they like to make their soup that way! The folks tried a bunch of other veggie items and they all turned out great. The soup was okay with rice, so I made a daal chaawal out of it. It was a win win for the group!

My BIL had planned a surprise cake cutting for my co-sister and Zaid and Ala arranged it nicely. It was a happy moment for the entire group on what was an otherwise long and tiring day. 

Also Jordan was expected to by much colder, but it was pleasant in the evening! 

A video highlights of our first day in Petra..

We made it back to our hotel and for once we had to be at the breakfast area only at 7AM and start sightseeing at 8AM.

That made our day! Finally a night of rest and sleep!

Sobek-Horus, Shiva-Vishnu.. same same but different

The previous post in this series is here..

Our cruise docked at its first stop, Kom Ombo!

Every ship had docked at around the same time to catch the sunset and it was like a zoo. We could hardly hear our guide in that crowd. To top things off, many guides had powerful laser pointers that should have been banned for public use given their power. They were blinding and for some reason the tourguides were all trying to one up each other in pointing.. that made for bad photos! 

Our guide Walid told us that this was a very special temple that survived intact inspite of all the changes in Egypt over time. 

Special because there was the faction from the North that predominantly believed in the Falcon god Horus. The southern folks were all with the crocodile god Sobek. 

This was cause for a lot of concern. So a great unifier built a temple that had two entrances, similar murals on either side , two side by side shrines and the back wall with a description that split everything including the festivals, offerings, etc. right down the middle. 

As a kid raised in India, could understand some of this. There is always Shiva temples and Vishnu temples and followers of one don't necessarily go to the other even though they acknowledge them both as gods. This wasn't any different. (We actually have a temple in Livermore called the Shiva Vishnu temple, so everyone goes.. it has two shrines but only one entrance. that is progress over the years for you!)

 

There is also some other intersesting stuff at this temple. A scribe on the wall that shows the 12 months and the season during the months. Apparently the Romans moved from 10 months to 12 months after coming to Egypt and realizing that 12 months made sense with the solar and lunar cycles. They inserted July and August as months to commemorate Julius Ceasar and Augustus. (November was the original 9th month). We knew this from history but didn't know this connection with Egyptian temple!

Then there is an inscription of all the surgical instruments used during birthing. There was a Royal birthing room at this temple where surgeons used to practice their craft! It was fascinating. 

We got some photos of this temple that keeps going on and on length wise, with the two parallel tracks for the two gods. 

Finally we came down to yet another interesting area. The crocodile museum. They had so many mummified crocodiles.. some of them more than 20 feet long ! We learned more about Sobek here! 

Then we were late! The boat was going to depart at 7:30 PM latest at dinner time. There was still a crowd trying to get to the docks. I delayed the group trying to find a fridge magnet.

The boat stack up one behind the other, from the dock and you go through multiple boats before you get to yours! 

We all raced to the boat and were almost the last group to get in before they started moving! 

Did have time to set everyone up for this masterpiece(and I say that loosely) in front of the mirror. They had started putting Christmas decorations in the dining area! Group photos are challenging.. makign everyone look at themselves in the mirror instead of my camera in the mirror was intersting.. then I looked down and messed up a few shots.. 

A video highlight of Kom Ombo..

We were going to travel and dock sometime late in the night at our second stop for the cruise. 

Walid gave us that look again after dinner. Slightly better but a 5 AM start from the reception area the following morning! We had already gotten used to this. A 3:30 AM wake up to fly, 4AM start to drive to Abu Simbel the next day and now, a 5AM start.

The trend was going in the right direction...

A billion dollar GEM!!

The previous post in this series is here..

After eating lunch in a moving van, we crossed the Nile again with the ladies singing "Nile nadiya" song.. which I thought was hilarious.

There was a soft opening of the new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) which we were lucky to visit. The entry ticket was 60 bucks but it was totally worth it. 

They spent a Billion dollars on this museum so far and we were told it might be 3 Billion by the time all the exhibits move in. There were already 15000 pieces in display with entire sections being worked on.

If the Egyptian museum in Cairo blew us away, I have no words to describe what we saw here. The tracks on the museum all radiate from a central point at the bottom of the valley and the museum literally climbs the hill to be level with the Giza plateau. When you reach the top of the escalators, you see the pyramids! 

The museum sections weave across society, kings and power and culture while time is the vertical track. You can trace things in sections horizontally or vertically. For a modern museum, extremely well thought out and organized.

It would take a person like me at least a week in this museum. We had 2  1/2 hours. So we had a bright history student who guided us through this expertly in 2 hours! 

There is a reflective pool of shallow water around this giant statue that is so amazing that some of us didn't realize it was water.. Indraprastha came to mind!

the facade of the museum gives you a Louvre reminder, inside and out..

usually I post pictures before video.. this time it is video before pictures.

We saw a lot of intersting displays.. the women were drawn to the jewelry.. the kids to the lunch boxes, dice and play toys from 3000 years ago..

while we keep hearing about the Romans in Egypt, I did not know Alexander's influence here.

Then we became fans of queen Hutshepsut !! 

The best ruler of Egypt was a woman who prefered trade based relationship with neighbors instead of wars and provocation. Yet after her rule, most of her statues were defaced and she was not on many records (as King Tut) in subequent historic accounts of the king's lineages and lists. 

Now we don't see women outside in Egypt! The world turns.. hopefully it gets better.. but after going to all these museums, I have lost hope on what humanity can do with or without technology. As a collective we are just animals wearing pants and shirts.. Maybe if women took over the world, it will be a better place. As long as men are in charge, we are doomed in the long run! That is the thought that keeps resonating after the multiple museum visits (Same story in Austria in the 1800's with Maria Teresa from another recent trip to a European museum!)

You should absolutely not miss this museum if you visit Egypt. Just fantastic. 

We had 45 minutes before we were to be dropped off at our hotel.  We stopped by a Papyrus place where a Mr. Khan gave us a demo of how papyrus was made today still the same way it was 3500 years ago and how it is stil being painted the same way.  Unfortunately I was so engrossed in his demo (and tired) that it was not recorded. We did buy a tree of life on Papyrus and got our names written in Heiroglyph's (you can see it in the end of the video). 

We decided to spend as much time at this place and there was no dinner stop. Decided to eat the leftovers from lunch for dinner. We were already told that pickup for the next day will be at 4:15AM to go to the airport! There was a collective sigh from everyone. So we literally went up, packed and crashed. 

It has taken 4 blog posts, going over ~400 photos and videos just to cover day 1 in Egypt. When we travel we cover as much as possible in as short a time. No wonder our kids decided they would rather stay home than do these 3:30 AM wake ups and going to airports at 4:30AM etc.. 

We were still jet lagged. So it was lights out as soon as we hit the bed!