God one ups Money - Ad Deir Monastery in Petra

The previous post in this series is here..

Our last stop was the Ad Deir Monastery. We had been told by folks who went before us, not to miss this place. It was not easy to get to as it was a strenous hike. It was good the kids decided to go for a mule ride as did their parents. The other four made it slow and steady. There are vendors every 500 meters or so trying to sell the same stuff to weary travelers. It definitely made the experience difficult. 

When the mule guys started bargaining with us at the Cafe saying it will take you 1 hour to go up but we can go in 20 minutes on the mule, it was not believable as they had to walk along the mule anyways! so "if the mule handler could walk up in 20 minutes, so could we" was our logic. For the most part it is true. San beat the mules. I was 5 minutes behind the mules. However, it is an exhausting hike. So it was wonderful to get to take in the views and do some photos and videos! The ladies had been praticing the same move at every place to do a collective "Reel" and we did that here as well. I am to edit that masterpiece but haven't gotten to it yet!

The slideshow of all the cats and mules we saw in Petra

The Nabatean people knew how to cut solid rock from the mountain face into large pillars and halls. They had a whole city within the canyons with excellent control of their most important resource .. water!

They had a script that was the starting point for the Arabic script. Somehow like everything we saw in Egypt, this too disappeared over time!

This is a popular world heritage site. It is usually crowded like crazy around Christmas time. However, given the conflicts in the area and flight restrictions, the place was empty. Hotels and shops were deserted. There were hardly 100 tourists that morning. No wonder every vendor was trying to get us to buy something there.

there is a vantage point a little higher up where we get better views of this amazing carving.. 

After the monastry we all came down walking to the Nabatean cafe. There was a lion key entrance which was on the map but we could not see it on our way up. San, myself and our niece were walking ahead by a few hundred meters. She was alert and said "Athimber, that lion thing is somewhere here to the right!". Her sense of distance was amazing. Sure enough inside a small gap we found this sign for Lion Triclinium. There was no path and you had to climb up rocks to get to it. Ran there solo to get these pics.

It was a pleasant walk down in the canyon shade..

At the cafe folks in the group ordered some fruit juice and gave it rave reviews. So far this day was going great and on plan!

Wanted to just walk back to the entrance. My estimate was it would take us an hour to get to the entrance if we walked fast on flat terrain. The group was tired as a whole. So we decided to walk to this shuttle and take it to the entrance. 

==== *** ====

There was a 20 minute hike from here to a shuttle stop. This whole Free shuttle is a borderline scam.  Originally was going to forget about this experience. But as a warning to others have to put it here. The shuttle is supposed to take 20 minutes to get back to the entrance with a stop at a Bedouin village. First of all no one mentioned the strenous hike up a hill go to go a shuttle stop. There are no directions to this stop and no signs of where it it! We even crossed more structures outside the site while walking..

The shuttle stop is a clearing under a tree.  Once we got there, luckily for us the van got full right away. so the driver and the guy in charge said "we will go stop at this bedouin village and keep going". Once we sat in the van, he tells us "we have to wait at the village for 15 minutes and then take off. that is our rule". Everyone in the van was tired. No one planned to get down. So we told him, "we are exhausted. we will sit in the van for 15 mintues". He said "okay. that is up to you". 

We go the place and there is a walkway with a string of shops. A guy at the shops tried to force us to get down. He said the "rule" was you had to get down and shop before the van took off. The rules kept changing every 10 minutes!

Every group within the van had people who were injured or too tired to get out. This guy was just off like a psycho. Maybe he was already having a bad day! He turned off the AC in the van, closed the windows and tried to force us down after he made the driver get out. A french family (where the mom was clearly suffering a foot injury.. she could hardly get into the van) told him "no. we are not getting down" and this guy got all jumpy and treatened to take folks out and "shoot" them if we don't follow his rules and started using abusive language in front of everyone. He was shouting "I will f^%k you all up!" in front of all the women and kids.

Then he called the driver out and sat in a bench to have tea. We had already sat there in the hot van for 20 minutes. One of the families managed to call their guide and driver to that point to pick them up. They had really small kids. There was an altercation there on how they were not allowed to get in.

After this he was showig us a cheers sign with tea in hand smiling while we had tired and hungry people sweating in the van. So I took his photo as he tried to go all out to show us he is boss. Finally a bedouin woman came up to me and said "you took a photo or video. I am a bedouin woman. You cannot take my photo". I told her that I was taking his picture and she happened to be in it as she was supporting his bad actins. But I respect women and children unlike them and deleted the video in front of her. Then asked her "are you a good person? He clearly is not. Tell him we have tired women and children in this van and he needs to let us go, now!". She talked to the jackass and finally the driver started the van after we had wasted 30 minutes there.

If you are planning to take this "free shuttle", know that they expect you to get outside the van, walk around, buy things and only then you get back in. Given these guys control the van, they can hold you hostage in this place. The regular cars cannot come in there. You are better off walking back to the entrance from the Nabatean cafe on a flat trail back through the canyon. it would have taken us maybe another 20 minutes. 

This 30 mintue experience thanks to one mans rudeness, turned the 6 hours of amazment that the Petra site had given us. All it takes is one person to spoil a trourist experience. The folks in Petra should make sure that their rules are advertised clearly. They should definitely take this guy and that driver away from any customer interfacing job or at least train him properly. 

==== *** ====

We all told each other to forget this and move on. When we were finally picked up by Zaid and Ala at the entrance, told them that they should have come with us inside Petra, even if they didn't come to the monastry. That might have saved us time and pain. Having paid guides who don't come with us is pointless. 

We stopped at our hotel, loaded the bags into the two vans and were off to the next stop a good 45 mintues later than planned. We were all hungry. Zaid said we could go to the City of Petra and grab some Falafel sandwiches to go.

Again, we made a mistake. The guys at the store didn't understand English. We needed vegetarian stuff. We lost 20 minutes trying to order. A student customer who spoke English, managed to translate for us. We gave feedback to our drivers/guides that at least one of them should have come with us instead of staying at the parking lot with the folks who didn't want to walk. All I wanted was some Pita bread and fries and that translation took longer!

We realized that in Jordan our guides were going out of their way to make sure we weren't seen with them during walks. It was weird. Maybe it had something to do with the issues going on locally! If your guide is not willing to walk with you anywhere, think twice before going on your own!

Finally we were back in the van and off to our next stop.. both drivers promised a race with the sun to make up for the bad experience. 

A slow day in Petra

The previous post in this series is here..

We woke up at 3:30 AM and drove to Cairo Airport from our hotel. Then caught a flight to Amman. There was a pre-paid Visa (thanks to Latif) which we had to get and then clear Immigration and customs. It was a decent airport but the smoking room door was wide open! So the whole area smelled of cigarette smoke. I went to the restroom and found cigarette butts in the toilet. 

This cannot be happening was my first thought. It was an international airport for crying out loud! Came out of that area and once we were out of the airport away from people, took a few deep breaths to calm down. 

We met our driver and guide Zaid. Between him and Ala, our other driver, they were going to drive and guide us for the Jordan leg of the tour. Not all of us could get on the same flight. So six of us made it on a 6:30 flight and the other two were on a 8 AM flight. Given our rest stop break, they made it to Petra within an hour after we reached. 

Most of the folks dozed off during the three hour drive. I was trying to stay up and take videos and also talk to Zaid to understand the area. 

Once we reached Petra, we were all hungry so we went straight to a restaurant suggested by our guides called "My Mom's recipe restaurant". It was walking distance from our hotel and the Petra site entrance and Museum.

The rooftop restaurant was well decorated and cozy!

 

Mom's recipe apparently included too much salt. The lentil soup was good but very salty. The rest of the food was amazing. They had a lot of veggie options. There was even french fries in the menu!

After all of us ate, we went and checked into the Le Maison Hotel. We all got a 2 hour nap. 

We started for the Museum at 4PM. It was a really quiet and nice museum. It was all self explanatory. We spent an hour in the museum, then took pictures outside as the sun started to set. Most of the museum is covered in the video.. I also thought some of the museum claims on plaques were exaggerated..

The first two pics were taken before we went into the museum.. the next two after we came out an hour later..

golden hour makes such a difference..

This was followed by some shopping in the stores next to the museum. We were debating having dinner at one of the other places when we saw that the menus were identical with slightly higher prices. So it was decided that we go back to the rooftop at Mom's recipe in hopes that mom uses less salt for dinner.

Turns out Mom is consistant and they like to make their soup that way! The folks tried a bunch of other veggie items and they all turned out great. The soup was okay with rice, so I made a daal chaawal out of it. It was a win win for the group!

My BIL had planned a surprise cake cutting for my co-sister and Zaid and Ala arranged it nicely. It was a happy moment for the entire group on what was an otherwise long and tiring day. 

Also Jordan was expected to by much colder, but it was pleasant in the evening! 

A video highlights of our first day in Petra..

We made it back to our hotel and for once we had to be at the breakfast area only at 7AM and start sightseeing at 8AM.

That made our day! Finally a night of rest and sleep!

Wrapping up the Egypt leg

The last post in this series is here..

We had finished the Karnak temple sunrise, visited the tombs at the valley of the kings, seen the mortuary temple of Queen Hatshepsut and were on our way to three more stops before being dropped off at the airport.

Our bags had been in the back of the van since the morning.

The next stop was to see the giant statues of Memnon. However the group was tired and did not want to get down. Only I made a dash for it with Walid. He explained the place to me and I took a quick photo and video and we jumped back and and moved. 

We were in West Luxor and had to cross the Nile to East Luxor to get some Egyptian cotton and or linen. We crossed the Winter Palace hotel in Luxor where a lot of celebrities had apparently stayed over the years.

We were told Egypt had the worlds best cotton and linen and shops in East Luxor were authentic for quality (might be pricier than the street shops outside every attraction but autentic and great quality).

Walid stopped at one such shop and we did see the quality and price. We all shopped for what we thought was a good deal given the time. We were given 40 minutes and we came out exactly in 40 minutes. 

The last stop was at an Indian restaurant. We had told Walid that we wanted Indian food at least once. He told us the only Indian place that he knew was in East Luxor and it was the New Taste of India.

We were almost going to be disappointed after reaching that place. They had been reserved for lunch for a group coming from India in one of the ships. That group was late. We got lucky. There was only a buffet with fixed menu (as they were catering to a group). So we had that same fixed vegetarian menu.

The chappati ended up being Pita bread (same as in the cruise) , the gulab jamun was the local egyptian sweet that has a hard shell and no syrup! Still the vegetable dish, channa and daal were Indian. The owner was Egyptian but his father had opened the restaurant after learning desi cooking or so we heard. The lassi was good per family. 

We gobbled up things as fast as we could and were off to the Luxor airport which was on this side of the city. 

The desi group from our ship was waiting outside the airport and told us "bad news. flight is very delayed". Fortunately they were on a different flight and our flight to Cairo was not delayed. 

We were harrassed a bit by the security folks at Luxor aiport. We were security checked every 10 feet by a bunch of folks who had nothing better to do. We questioned why were being checked just after being checked and there were some irate guys who were trying to show they were boss of their station. We just shook our heads and went through with these checks and pat downs. 

The saving grace was the small lounge at the airport which had wifi and charging stations and hot water. We made some Wagh Bakri chai with the hot water and sat there for an hour. Then we were off to Cairo for the night.

There are no direct flights from Luxor to Amman in Jordan. So we had to go spend the night in Cairo and fly out the following morning. 

We said buy to Walid at the airport in Luxor and were met by Latif again in Cairo airport. There was no time for dinner. So we wanted to pick up some veggie falafal sandwitches and rice. Had to wait a good 40 minutes for the order to be made.

We were to go stay in a hotel a little away from the airport. It was more of an apartment type hotel.

The facilities were great with the rooms having a fridge, kitchen and microwave. We ate the dinner in the breakfast area of the hotel. Some rooms away from the freeway were great. We got a room facing the freeway and the noise was deafeneing. It was a bad room. We complained but they had no other rooms or rooms with similar noise! San decided to sleep in the kitchen area in a fold out bed. I was too exhausted to care. It was going to be a short stay anyways as we had to wake up yet again at 3:30 AM to head to Cairo airport at 4AM for a flight to Amman. The drive was a good 20 to 25 minutes and we had to load all the suitcases.

We gave Latif a list of things that were great and the few things he could change for future guests and he was appreciative of the feedback. 

A video highlight of the last few things we did in Egypt..

and that was that..  it was bye bye to Egypt!

If my family allows me to stay glued to the laptop later tomorrow, might finish blogging about the Jordan leg as well.. that is another 1200+ photos and videos to review.