Meeting the Long Neck tribe people in Chiang Mai

The previous post in this series is here..

Joy showed up in the morning to pick us up at 7AM sharp. We had received the breakfast and they gave what they could. San was covered. I was not. Luckily I still had some energy bars left for the day. We also wanted to stop by a pharmacy to get some throat lozenges. Joy helped San buy stuff. It was good we had a translator!

With a quick pharmacy stop, we were on our way to our first stop on a very packed day. Joy was surprised that we wanted to see all that in one day, but we promised him we will step up and we will be done before 6PM for sure. He simply smiled. As we drove out of the busy area of Chiang Mai, he showed us the old houses in the area made of Teak wood on one street where the trees were also old and lined the street on both sides. It was going to be an almost 100km drive. Gave us some rest. We saw an airplane that was converted to a restaurant on the way as well.

Our first stop was to visit the Long neck tribe who are originally from Burma but have been given refuge in Thailand. They can sell trinkets to tourists and have some land to cultivate crops for themselves, but are restricted to that area. The women have long necks and wear a heavy set of rings from the time they are children. Originally only women born on a full moon Wednesday had to wear it. Now all girls are wearing it here. Learning about their history and way of life was interesting. We took some photos with the women and children, bought some souvenirs and walked back to the car. The river that ran through their area was key to their survival and there were beautiful waterfalls right near the houses of the tribe.

A few more photos..

A video highlights reel..

The reason for visiting them first was that the next stop wasn’t going to be ready for us that early and they were on the way..

Banteay Kdei Temple

The previous post in this series is here..

After visiting the Tomb Raider Ta Prohm temple, we went to the Banteay Kdei temple.

When our driver mentioned we will go to “Bun Tea kadai” I thought in Tamil.. he was going to get us to a shop that sold bun and tea.. for breakfast.. the visions of fresh steaming pav and chai was floating in my head. When he stopped at the parking lot and declared we had arrived, only then it struck me. It was yet another temple and I had heard what I wanted to hear.

Our driver said it was a really large temple and we should walk from this gate all the way to the other gate. It was a long distance, no kidding! He would drive the car and pick us up from the other gate. No point in us walking all the way back. We liked the idea.

The temple kept going and going and going.. we counted at least 20 arches through which we walked past on one straight line. The lingas were gone. The buddhas beheaded. Yet again a reminder that we as a collective are idiots. When we finally saw the one active shrine with a new Buddha that people were praying to, we also said a prayer and walked out.

These temples must have been spectacular in their hey dey! How did a country with these riches become what it is today.. we can only wonder.

When we came out we asked our driver “next stop Angkor Wat?” . He said “No. We can see one more temple before we head to Angkor Wat temple”.. This is a different style.. so off we went..It was still pleasant and just before 9AM. We had been on the road since 4;30 but were holding up pretty good.. will pick up that temple in the next post..

Banteay Srei temple - a beauty that was ahead of the big temple by 50 years

The previous post in this series is here..

After our epic romantic lunch, we drove a short distance downhill to reach the Banteay Srei temple. This temple predates the Tanjore big temple by 50 years! It is a Hindu temple with a beautiful moat and carvings with separate shrines for most of the main deities. Sadly the French dismantled most of it and took it to France.. what is left is a fraction of the original temple and is still mind blowing. Humans don’t know how to leave a magnificent creation the way it is. Religiion, language, culture wars take a toll on beauty.

We walked around the temple. It was hot already. The restrooms here were really well maintained. The staff friendly but firm in enforcing people stay within the ropes. Was thinking “isn’t this a too little too late!”

Sarak of course was practicing photography the entire time. I should have spent more time teaching him how to use portrait mode better.. would have had more good pictures. In any case here are the photos..

after we had taken a portrait at every door frame and window frame we told our driver, all the pictures are starting to look the same. So we can finish this location and move. We did get to see the moon rise over the temple top when we went all the way to the back of the temple. It was beautiful!!

after the temple we drove past a market to our next stop. I got fresh roasted local cashews. They were amazing. San got jackfruit which she kept eating through the rest of the trip. I am very allergic to it so when she gets it already in a sealed pouch, I cannot complain. Just told her not to keep it in my suitcase and all will be well. Then she ate fresh palm cakes with jaggery and kept raving about it for the next two days. Apparently this is not something even the locals can make at home. They just buy it in bulk in the market.

The video highlights reel.. the interesting part is the way rice is harvested.. hopefully more desi kids see this so they know how rice gets to their plate the way it does!

Then we went towards our next stop. The sun was up and it was hot and humid. We had already seen 6 locations since 7AM. We were getting tired, but weren’t going to give up. So we tredged on..