photography

Satyavan-Savitri, Nala-Damayanthi, Sundar-Sangeetha - experiences may vary

If you are not familiar with the stories of Savitri or Damayanthi from the Mahabharata, the short summary is that these are women who went to extraordinary lengths to save their husbands!

Savitri had to go head to head with the god of death, Yama himself, to get her hubby back.

Fast forward to the present day and you have a slightly different version in the Sundar-Sangeetha story. Nope, no debating the god of death, but rather teasing him by dangling the husband like a carrot and going “hi Yama, come see if you can get him! See, I am almost letting you have him!” . Yama tries a few times and cries “sour grapes” or “sour carrots” and walks away.

Where are all these thoughts coming from? They all have to do with our recent visit to the top of Danothri (our nickname for Mt. Dana in Yosemite National park) after our recent trips to Gangothri and Yamunothri.

While Yamunothri was at 10,800 ft and Gangothri was at 11,200 ft, Mt. Dana is at 13,060 ft! We start the hike at 9500 ft! This group hike was planned much much earlier than July. Based on some advice by Sri. Sundararama Deekshidhar (not referring to myself as a joke.. he is my father’s favorite, who does Katha Kalakshebham and is related to Anantharama Deekshidhar) who recited stories last May at my fathers Subha sweekaram (rememberance), there were to be no risky hiking till my dads anniversary ceremonies were complete. We did climb a few mountains in that one year but did not take “risks”. So this one (with its label as a risky hike) was pushed to be post India trip.

Hotels, Driving logistics, food planning, everything was all set well in advance, and the whole group was looking forward to it. Then I ended up in the hospital. My friends were more worried about me making it back to normal and the hike topic was put aside. Did get discharged on a Monday evening and 11 days later we were supposed to be on our way to Yosemite. The rest of the group was suggesting I drop out or at least come for the drive and walk to the till the trail head and maybe go as far as I can go.

That is where the modern Savitri comes in.. Sangeetha decided that the fastest way for her hubby to get back to “normal” was for him to do all the things he is used to doing or supposed to be doing. Five days after discharge, I am signed up to do a 60 day yoga challenge! On day 7, I am hiking PG&E with the group to see if I can have any chance at hike Mt. Dana. Did PG&E without an issue but it was our backyard. There is no challenge as the terrain is so familiar, it is not high altitude and there is a nice trail. It was decided based on my PG&E effort that I will be joining the summit hike for Mt. Dana. They were all trying to be nice and encouraging. All of them wanted me to not miss out and I could tell.

We drove Friday evening to Mono lake area with a few short restroom breaks (all for me!) and checked into our rooms at the Lodge in Lee Vinning. We had a fantastic dinner watching the late sunset. We were also sitting outside to get used to the altitude and oxygen levels.

The next morning we started hiking from the trailhead at 6:30 AM. A group of 9 (We had a friend join our gang of 8.. even though he didn’t know the rest of the group, he fit right in!). A mile in, one of our group members made a wise decision to go back as it was not easy to breathe. We had come up a ~1000 feet at that point. Everyone looked at me, then San gave me a look, and I kept walking.

Three hours later, we were 1000 ft from the top and again some folks in the group had second thoughts and asked if I want to go down. This time I refused, having made it that far. Just paced myself, pushed through it and made it. Was very happy when I walked up to the top. Gave a short thank you speech (you can see it in the video)

Normally I never use nature for piss breaks but given the recent issue, had to stop a few times to water the bushes. One of my friends even said “let’s go.. you will have company. no need to feel embarrassed!”.

Mt. Dana is a hard hike because there is no trail in most parts. It is just gravel and slippery. There is also ice in places which you cannot really see. On the way down I made it fast. Coming down is somehow easier for me as I can balance well. For the hike we had all packed our own food. I had aaloo sandwiches, two Think bars and two Kind bars which turned out to be more than enough. We came back at 3PM exactly to the parking lot. My legs were shaking and walking in a straight line was tough.

Went back to our room and drank some Emergen-C and that helped immediately. Many of us had a sunstroke like effect when we were at the top. Three of us got severe headaches in just 20 minutes. So we decided to come down right away instead of eating at the summit. There was not much room to sit there at the top anyways! Had a much needed 90 minute nap before we decided to have Chai, followed by an early dinner. Dinner was more home cooked food. The rooms had fridges and microwaves. Dinner tasted great! Thayir sadam with mor-milagai can be amazing after you hike to the summit of Mt. Dana!

San was beaming with pride that I had actually listened to her and made it. I was also happy seeing her so happy. Currently we are having debates (not as serious as the Savitri-Yama debates) on this hike being the starting point for my knee swelling 10 days later, which has made me go back to the hospital. Or is it the fact that I did a few doubles in the Yoga room the following weekend to make up for the missed yoga practice during hikes, or was it walking around all day for two days at the music festival and making the knee worse? Given there is so many “assignable causes”, we have decided to look forward rather than look back and focus on getting the knee fixed ASAP! For the record, it is definitely better now after they drained fluid and gave a steroid shot in the knee, followed by four days of icing and rest.

Truth be told, I was happy that entire weekend hiking, eating, joking around, taking pictures with my favorite people. If anything it lifted my spirits up!

There are tons of photos.. so sharing them in galleries.

This first photo is a collage.. it starts off by San showing me everything I am doing wrong in the approach to the final photo, till she is kind of happy with the end result. Never before has this regular sequence been caught on camera so beautifully. The photographer here is not much different from San. Her hubby runs far away whenever she pulls her camera out. This is par for the course in our hikes for the hubbies.

The views of the landscape are just out of th world throughout the hike. We got to see a few birds, marmots, large spiders. There was absolutely no shade anywhere. The gravel was slippery. We did see a bunch of teenagers hike this with their parents and went “wow”!

A few pano shots..

Now for the galleries..

A video of the drive, the dinner and our hike to the Mt. Dana summit..

Moral of this post: One just needs the right motivation and the right look from the right person to do these hikes!

There was still time after our dinner and the sun hadn’t set yet. So we made plans.. that in the next post..

Alanis Morisette, Traffic jams and a Ganga Aarathi to remember

The previous post in this series is here..

We left Haridwar and reached Rishikesh. MIL was exhausted and said she will stay in the car and drink tea at a local tea stall. The driver told us he will stop and help her. The three of us were given instructions to walk from the main Lakshmanjula road towards the river and once there, walk along the river and see some bridges, see the Ganga Aarathi and then come back.

We walked as instructed, saw the crowd, saw the entire Ganga Aarathi, which was a great experience. Then we walked back with a ganna juice stop for San.

MIL looked refreshed after her rest and chai. Our driver suggested that we go to the hotel after our return, drop luggage before we make it to the end of the road to go cross the lighted Janki Setu bridge and visit temples on the other side. We should have listened to him. We told him we were all tired and would rather be done with all the temple visits before coming back.

We parked in a parking lot near the entrance to the Janki sethu (bridge) and walked across it. Then on the other side we visited two temples where we met our recent friends and family! It was great to catch up again.

We walked back to the car and our driver said the road was jammed and will take one hour to clear at least. The local restaurants had no seating. Everything was full. We left MIL in the car and the three of us walked back to the hotel in crazy jammed traffic. But our luggage was still in the car. My jacket was left loose in the trunk with my passport in the jacket pocket. I was tense and worried that if they open to take out stuff, my jacket and passport fall down. Luckily when the driver showed up with MIL and the luggage the jacket was still on top.

Alanis for some reason came to mind.. had listened to her albums as a grad student a long time ago when her album hit.. raining, traffic jam when your’e already late, India, a few neurons connected and gave me memories of Philadelphia in early 90’s, while at Rishikesh. The brain does funny things..

We were all exhausted after that experience. our hotel was a new hotel and it was fantastic. Sadly we were too late and the restaurant had closed for dinner. Ate an energy bar and went to sleep. The other three had taken some Lassi earlier at the parking lot. Everyone just crashed.

In the morning we had a really nice breakfast at the hotel including idli, vadai etc. The food and service was fantastic.

After the breakfast we got our luggage down and were all set to drive to the Dehradun airport. We met the same family at the airport again. At this point my FIL was going back to Chennai and San/me went with MIL to Mumbai. I had one evening and one day in Mumbai to repack before flying out to the US. Given all the helicopter delay scares, was happy to know that I will make it to Mumbai.

Here are the photos from our Rishikesh leg and back to Dehradun airport. We saw some interesting things in the airport including a Flybrary. You can see it in the pictures and the video.

Photos..

Video highlight reel..

Rishikesh is a vegetarian city. That in itself was an amazing experience. The food was just amazing.

We made it back to Mumbai without event.. Will write about it before I close this series!

The worst of people and the best of people - A tale of two days

It was a tale of two days, where we saw the worst in people and the best in people!

The previous post in this series is here.

After a night at the hotel in Harshil village near the Gangothri Helipad, we were. waiting to get the call on day 4 to be picked up and ride to Phata first and then on to Kedarnath. The ride to Phata is 45 minutes. Then we were to wait for a government Helicopter to take us to Kedarnath. That is a 4 minute Heli-shuttle ride but it is common to all tour operators. We saw no pickup call sign and were worried. We were ready at 6AM but till 8 AM they kept stalling. Finally we told our driver we will go to the Helipad and he did get the call.

When we went there we realized that they were stalling us because the two other people who were to join us in our helicopter were no shows. They missed seeing Gangothri the previous day due to bad weather (we had made a wise decision to go straight to the temple!) and against the instructions of the tour service had decided to go early morning on day 4. They had been told they will forfeit their ride but guess they had influence with some minister or other and took their chances. Finally they came after 6 hours! We waited in a helipad with no food and a porta potty where my in-laws had to just sit, walk around and bear it for all that time thanks to some really irresponsible people. They were feeling so guilty that they could not even make eye contact with us. We controlled ourselves and went on that 45 minute ride.

When we reached Phata, we were told by the Thumby travels folks that there was no way we were going to make it to Kedarnath. Again it wasn’t true. The two people with us didn’t want to go as their adult kids were still stuck in Badrinath. So we missed the last chopper to Kedarnath, even though we were willing to go stay overnight at Kedarnath, which had its own risks. All of us were tired and made peace with the fact that worse case we see 3/4 and miss Badrinath. It was already 5 and there was no more shuttles. We made it to the hotel we were supposed to stay in anyways (after visiting Kedarnath).

We met a wonderful family that had missed out on Kedarnath the previous day and were now staying in the same hotel as us. A husband and wife, both doctors, their two young cricket loving sons and his parents. We got to chat with them over dinner and they told us what it takes to get out of this situation. So my FIL called the travel operator and told him what had happened. We were promised that we will be on the first chopper out of Phata, no matter what.

Day 5, early morning we ended up in Phata helipad and this time two different people joined us as we made the 4 minute flight. “You have to be in and out in under 2 hours if you want to make it out same day!” was the instruction.

When we reached Kedarnath literally a few minutes later, MIL already had shortness of breath. So the decision was made 3 to 1 (and after a few minutes it was unanimous) that MIL be carried from helipad to the temple on a PIttu (basket). The three of us would walk alongside. We were not sure if FIL could walk it, but he did us proud. We walked as fast as we could with the guide, who then pushed us into a line and said “when you come out, meet me there” and disappeared. We were in a large pig pen with 200 other folks where there was room for only 150 people. There was a line 3 miles long where folks who walk the 30+ kilometers were waiting to get in. For every 20 people in the regular line, two people from this area would be inserted in. What we did not know was that there was a cutoff time when the inner shrine would be cordoned off for a few hours. So there was a mad rush in both lines. The regular line folks behaved much more decently than the people who joined the helicopter crowd. Not everyone in this pen was from the heli tours. There were folks who told me they knew someone who knew someone and had been pushed into the line. God works in mysterious ways and if he wants you to see him, you will. Otherwise…

It was really dangerous and there was a stampede where the crowd showed no mercy. My MIL almost got crushed and her specs were thrown out and she started crying. San and me got separated. I could not even see my FIL. There were really nasty people in the crowd as were genuinely nice folks who helped my in-laws to safety(they told us later). We all went where the crowd took us.

Eventually all of us got to see Kedareshwarar and when I walked up, a priest put a veshti on my shoulder, put some turmeric and ghee on my forehead and told me to go touch all four sides of the mountain deity. There were only 8-9 people inside the shrine at the time and 4 were priests. Had already seen San leave on my way in and she was happy and beaming. Later I learned that she was happy because the priest gave her a rudhrasha necklace. In spite of going through an ordeal to get there, there was peace inside that shrine. Walked out and met San. We then took pictures and found my FIL and MIL. We all looked haggard and exhausted to each other.

The pittu guy was found and we made it back to the helipad. We signed in for the return ride and after an hours wait, made it on a helicopter to Phata again. This time we wanted to go straight to Badrinath as it was supposed to be Badrinath day. The two people who were to come with us refused to join us, claiming their kids were still stuck in Kedarnath. At that point the tour opeartor told them that if they don’t get in the helicopter with us, they have to go by road for the next leg and they forfeit their ride.. There was this flight coordinator, Saravanan, who really managed to calm everyone and get everyone to where they were going. He told us “you will make it to Badrinath today! Do not worry. We are making arrangements for their family to join them in the next chopper. They will come!” All six of us boarded the helicopter and we landed in Badrinath. It was till early evening.

We told our driver to take us straight to the temple. No hotel. Just go. Told him the four of us had no other option. He obliged. Again we had a long walk from the closest place a car could go to the temple. PIttu to the rescue, again. MIL got on the pittu and we walked (you can see it in the video). We made it and saw Badrinath, up close for almost 5 mintues. Then it was time to walk back.

There was an option to go see the Mana village and further up to Ganesh cave, Vyas cave and on to the Saraswathi temple and the Pandava statues. That was as high as the local tourists go on day trips. It was a long hike. It was all possible if we had the full day at Badrinath. We had two hours before it got dark. Our guide told us it was not an easy hike to do in 2 hours. We told him we went up Yamunothri three days earlier and he said “you guys must be used to hiking. you look fit. we will see”.

MIL said she will stay back at the base in a restaurant. Then the three of us went up. FIL came up till Ganesh Cave and said that is as far as he goes. He decided to sit outside another small cafe near Ganesh Gufa. San and me ran up to Vyas Gufa and all the way to the other two sites. The fact that we kept leaving people behind suddenly stuck a chord in my head when I saw the Pandava statue with the dog where the dog and Yudhishtira leave everyone behind… Please don’t even ask if I am comparing myself to the great Yudhishtira.. I am just San’s pet dog who walks a few steps ahead at times..

Good thing is unlike the pandavas story, we came back and picked up everyone and walked back to the car. Then it was time to spend the night in a nice hotel in Badrinath.

We did not in our wildest dreams, imagine we would see both Kedareshwarar and Badrinath on the same day! Especially after the previous days events. It was meant to be !!

After picking and choosing, there are 50 photos. The first two are us at Kedarnath and Badrinath. The rest are grouped into landscape and portrait format galleries.

A video highlight for two days. It is long but captures the essence of what we went through..

It was great that we had met the other family with small kids and elderly parents. . We had made new friends.

It was a grueling but satisfying day and we really needed the rest.

Now I need a rest after writing this blog post. Time to ice my swollen knee some more before going to bed!

Will continue the travelog in a few days..