hiking

Satyavan-Savitri, Nala-Damayanthi, Sundar-Sangeetha - experiences may vary

If you are not familiar with the stories of Savitri or Damayanthi from the Mahabharata, the short summary is that these are women who went to extraordinary lengths to save their husbands!

Savitri had to go head to head with the god of death, Yama himself, to get her hubby back.

Fast forward to the present day and you have a slightly different version in the Sundar-Sangeetha story. Nope, no debating the god of death, but rather teasing him by dangling the husband like a carrot and going “hi Yama, come see if you can get him! See, I am almost letting you have him!” . Yama tries a few times and cries “sour grapes” or “sour carrots” and walks away.

Where are all these thoughts coming from? They all have to do with our recent visit to the top of Danothri (our nickname for Mt. Dana in Yosemite National park) after our recent trips to Gangothri and Yamunothri.

While Yamunothri was at 10,800 ft and Gangothri was at 11,200 ft, Mt. Dana is at 13,060 ft! We start the hike at 9500 ft! This group hike was planned much much earlier than July. Based on some advice by Sri. Sundararama Deekshidhar (not referring to myself as a joke.. he is my father’s favorite, who does Katha Kalakshebham and is related to Anantharama Deekshidhar) who recited stories last May at my fathers Subha sweekaram (rememberance), there were to be no risky hiking till my dads anniversary ceremonies were complete. We did climb a few mountains in that one year but did not take “risks”. So this one (with its label as a risky hike) was pushed to be post India trip.

Hotels, Driving logistics, food planning, everything was all set well in advance, and the whole group was looking forward to it. Then I ended up in the hospital. My friends were more worried about me making it back to normal and the hike topic was put aside. Did get discharged on a Monday evening and 11 days later we were supposed to be on our way to Yosemite. The rest of the group was suggesting I drop out or at least come for the drive and walk to the till the trail head and maybe go as far as I can go.

That is where the modern Savitri comes in.. Sangeetha decided that the fastest way for her hubby to get back to “normal” was for him to do all the things he is used to doing or supposed to be doing. Five days after discharge, I am signed up to do a 60 day yoga challenge! On day 7, I am hiking PG&E with the group to see if I can have any chance at hike Mt. Dana. Did PG&E without an issue but it was our backyard. There is no challenge as the terrain is so familiar, it is not high altitude and there is a nice trail. It was decided based on my PG&E effort that I will be joining the summit hike for Mt. Dana. They were all trying to be nice and encouraging. All of them wanted me to not miss out and I could tell.

We drove Friday evening to Mono lake area with a few short restroom breaks (all for me!) and checked into our rooms at the Lodge in Lee Vinning. We had a fantastic dinner watching the late sunset. We were also sitting outside to get used to the altitude and oxygen levels.

The next morning we started hiking from the trailhead at 6:30 AM. A group of 9 (We had a friend join our gang of 8.. even though he didn’t know the rest of the group, he fit right in!). A mile in, one of our group members made a wise decision to go back as it was not easy to breathe. We had come up a ~1000 feet at that point. Everyone looked at me, then San gave me a look, and I kept walking.

Three hours later, we were 1000 ft from the top and again some folks in the group had second thoughts and asked if I want to go down. This time I refused, having made it that far. Just paced myself, pushed through it and made it. Was very happy when I walked up to the top. Gave a short thank you speech (you can see it in the video)

Normally I never use nature for piss breaks but given the recent issue, had to stop a few times to water the bushes. One of my friends even said “let’s go.. you will have company. no need to feel embarrassed!”.

Mt. Dana is a hard hike because there is no trail in most parts. It is just gravel and slippery. There is also ice in places which you cannot really see. On the way down I made it fast. Coming down is somehow easier for me as I can balance well. For the hike we had all packed our own food. I had aaloo sandwiches, two Think bars and two Kind bars which turned out to be more than enough. We came back at 3PM exactly to the parking lot. My legs were shaking and walking in a straight line was tough.

Went back to our room and drank some Emergen-C and that helped immediately. Many of us had a sunstroke like effect when we were at the top. Three of us got severe headaches in just 20 minutes. So we decided to come down right away instead of eating at the summit. There was not much room to sit there at the top anyways! Had a much needed 90 minute nap before we decided to have Chai, followed by an early dinner. Dinner was more home cooked food. The rooms had fridges and microwaves. Dinner tasted great! Thayir sadam with mor-milagai can be amazing after you hike to the summit of Mt. Dana!

San was beaming with pride that I had actually listened to her and made it. I was also happy seeing her so happy. Currently we are having debates (not as serious as the Savitri-Yama debates) on this hike being the starting point for my knee swelling 10 days later, which has made me go back to the hospital. Or is it the fact that I did a few doubles in the Yoga room the following weekend to make up for the missed yoga practice during hikes, or was it walking around all day for two days at the music festival and making the knee worse? Given there is so many “assignable causes”, we have decided to look forward rather than look back and focus on getting the knee fixed ASAP! For the record, it is definitely better now after they drained fluid and gave a steroid shot in the knee, followed by four days of icing and rest.

Truth be told, I was happy that entire weekend hiking, eating, joking around, taking pictures with my favorite people. If anything it lifted my spirits up!

There are tons of photos.. so sharing them in galleries.

This first photo is a collage.. it starts off by San showing me everything I am doing wrong in the approach to the final photo, till she is kind of happy with the end result. Never before has this regular sequence been caught on camera so beautifully. The photographer here is not much different from San. Her hubby runs far away whenever she pulls her camera out. This is par for the course in our hikes for the hubbies.

The views of the landscape are just out of th world throughout the hike. We got to see a few birds, marmots, large spiders. There was absolutely no shade anywhere. The gravel was slippery. We did see a bunch of teenagers hike this with their parents and went “wow”!

A few pano shots..

Now for the galleries..

A video of the drive, the dinner and our hike to the Mt. Dana summit..

Moral of this post: One just needs the right motivation and the right look from the right person to do these hikes!

There was still time after our dinner and the sun hadn’t set yet. So we made plans.. that in the next post..

The road to heaven goes through hell - Chardham Yatra

The one other major “trip” that we took after the Japan trip was to do the Chardham yatra via Helicopter.

My father had requested that I go visit over and over again, in the days that he could still talk. So right after the one year annual ceremony, my mom suggested I go do this Yatra with San. Her reasoning was “I don’t know when you will come visit next. So go when you are here!”. We had spent the first week of the trip doing the ceremonies for 5 days, then immediately visited Gunaseelam (family deity) temple for a day. Then we were free to visit other temples. So right away we spent the next six days in the CharDham Yatra.

We had requested my FIL to do the booking as he is local and could directly talk to the. tour operators. He was already wary as there was a lot of fraudulent bookings for this yatra. He had transferred a little over 2k USD per person for this five day trip not to mention the travel from Chennai to Dehradun and Dehradhun to Mumbai.

We were committed. The decision was to have our in-laws join as well. We begged them to join. They had read the reviews and knew it was not going to be easy to do this at their age, but they agreed and we were glad they did. They might have regretted the decision. At least they didn’t show it. Something tells me that this will be the last trip we go with them which involves high altitude, extended walking, poor accommodations without proper restrooms. Now that I have gone through my first UTI and kidney infection, totally understand what I put my FIL through for those five days. Hopefully he forgives me in this lifetime.

A few things to note before I dive into writing details about this Yatra.

  1. I was already in a bad mood. My fathers passing only hit me while we were busy cleaning up the apartment. Till then it was lurking in the background. Dropping off mom’s thirumangalyam at Gunaseelam temple was the last nail. So I was grumpy and mentally exhausted.

  2. My wife and in-laws were fully aware of the situation. They were extremely supportive throughout this trip. Every now and then, they just let me be to stare at the snow covered mountains.

  3. When people tell you that given we go by Helicopter from place to place and get to see the actual deities, as though it is a walk in the park, it is NOT! This is not for older people or people with health issues. If you get altitude sickness, think twice or thrice before you go.. Better, avoid it.

  4. The Heli tours seat 6. If possible get a full group so your helicopter is in your control at least as far as the passenger manifest is concerned. This way there are no issues with late or missing passengers costing you a day on a hectic trip. Local travellers who can afford to take such risks don’t care about their co-passengers.

  5. Do not Plan this for 5 days even though that is the travel plan. Have at least 3 extra days to save yourself a lot of mental agony. Helipads close due to bad visibility, bad weather, local fires etc. totally unpredictable weather in these parts of the himalayas. Once you are up there, a road trip return is also not possible as roads close due to landslides. There are also unpredictable delays due to politicians and other folks who block roads.

  6. go on a dieting spree before this trip. The helicopters can only take so much weight. They assume 75kg per passenger and a 5kg bag per person. You will be weighed before every trip.

Having said all that, we did take all morning and afternoon to fly from Chennai to Dehradun via Lucknow. Once we reached Dehradun airport, we had a car waiting for us to take us to our hotel. It was a 90 minute drive through the mountains. On the way there were many roadside stalls for good and chai. We stopped to have noodles and Chai.

Every 500m there is a “pahaho-wali maggi” store. Never diss Maggi noodles. It is the food of sherpas! San let me have all the Maggi I wanted on this trip. That is one thing that put a smile on my face!

We were met by the tour coordinator who gave us a bag and said anything we need for the next 4 days goes in that bag and cannot exceed 5kgs. Also he asked for our weight including what we were going to wear (jackets etc). He asked us to leave our luggage in the hotel cloak room and leave only with the 5kg bag the next morning. So we packed emergency medicines, chargers, minimal clothes and before you knew it was done! I kept 1 kg as reserve in my bag in case we bought some souveniers. It was a good move.

We had a nice dinner and breakfast at the hotel in Dehradun and were picked up by the tour company. It was a short drive to the Sahasradhara helipad in Dehradun. We got boarding passes after being weighed in. After a short wait, we flew to Yamunothri. It was a 40 minute ride and was pleasant. This is my first helicopter ride if memory serves me right. So it was better than my expectations.

Once at Yamunothri, they see your badges and folks come take you to the hotel. It was a simple room. We were asked to rest. There were enough rooms for the group and a separate shed for having food. The village was very peaceful with a few hotels and a small temple. The views were amazing! There were 15 people in our group. 60 guys were going to come and carry us 4 /person in a Doli (it is a bucket seat that is held up by two wooden sticks on either side) up 7+ kilometers with an elevation gain of 3000 feet.

We waited patiently for 3 hours! Apparently the election commisisoner had decided to do the Chardham coinciding with our schedule. That was not good news. They had blocked the path for an hour. So the morning group was stuck. Doli men could not reach. Finally they showed up and were ready to go on their second trip! These are all kids and young men 17-30 who came from Nepal during the visiting season to make money. Strawberry pickers from Mexico came to mind.

After just a few yards on the Doli, I was not for it. We hike a lot. So I got off the Doli and told the guys it was okay. They were getting paid anyways. So one of them can guide me and the other three can carry the doli and walk along. If I could not walk, then I agreed to get back. I hiked the entire way up. San also saw what I did and decided to walk it. My in-laws found it difficult to breathe and after a point their doli’s were all stopped thanks to the politician and everyone was asked to walk. They could not and made the wise decision to turn back to the hotel. San was stuck a good mile behind me. Lucikly the Doli guys had cell signal at places and they sent word. I waited and finally she joined me. They had parked the doli’s 4.5 km from the bottom. We both ran up the rest of the way through doli’s horses, people who would not move..

When I was almost a Km to the top, a horse hit my ankle with full force, removed my shoes and skin came off my ankle. Told the guys it was too late to turn back. Just put my socks back on and kept going. We reached the Yamunothri shrine at 7 PM. It was already getting dark. A priest met us, took us to a line and shoved us in there. His instructions “keep your hands up and go with the crowd. You will be in front in a few minutes. See the deity. THey will push you out. I will wait for you where they push you out”. It was like a birthing experience. At 7:08 we were ejected out. We had seen the shrine for maybe 25 seconds tops.

As part of my promise to my dad, I did no a prayer at this place. That took another 10 minutes with the priest. Then it was time to go down. We went down almost 4 km by walk. By then the doli guys joined us. It was getting crazy with Doli’s, horses and people pushing. So they told us walking was not good for us or them. Doli’s have right of way! so we both got on that and they literally ran down the last 3 km. WIth full bladders we had to endure a bumpy ride to the base. Then we had to walk back up to the hotel. That was a climb in itself. We were so happy to see the restroom. They still had dinner left for us. So we ate what we could. We were also glad to see my in-laws in good spirits. They were happy they decided to return back. In spite of leaving earlier, they were also caught in the politician traffic and had made it back only 90 minutes before we did.

Here are some picturess..

and a video..

We crashed right away. The next morning we were going to leave for the helipad bright and early.

Cherry blossom dream come true at Mt. Fuji shrine

The previous post in this series is here..

Our second stop in the Mt. Fuji area was to climb up a bill to the Arakurayama shrine and see views of the valley and Mt. Fuji from this hill top shrine.

We were told that it was a pretty hard hike. My friends son was not feeling well that morning and he braved it to this point but needed rest. So four of us went up. We promised to do our best to go as fast as we could and come back. There was a short drive from Lake Kawaguchiko to a parking lot for this shrine. We crossed a road and were faced with a bunch of steps that keep coming.

The beauty was that there were cherry blossoms everywhere at this high altitude. We thought Kyoto was our last interaction. This was mind boggling. We enjoyed the hike to the top, got to soak in some amazing views and came back down.

Here are the photos..

and a video highlight reel..

Every stop on this day was one upping the previous stop.. that in the next post..