All roads lead to Rome...

Within Rome, all roads also lead to a central point.. in spite of this, it is possible to get lost in Rome today. Google Maps comes in very handy!

The previous post on this Europe trip (day1) is here..

On day 2 we got up, had breakfast at Hotel Canada (they have a very good breakfast for 10$/person) and walked to the train station. We were taking a local metro to the Vatican. The local metros in Rome are really good. On time, every efficient and people on the trains are friendly. The ticket buying system is also very easy to use. 

We were to meet our tour guide at the bottom of the steps directly opposite the Vatican entrance per instructions. This is like telling a Penguin, you walk up that island of ice and your partner will meet you there.. It looks like all of Rome is at those steps, trying to find their tour guide. There are a zillion tour guides holding flags with the tour company names and some other little beanie baby or toy tied to their little flags. The trick is to go early so you can be united with your guide. Then it is easy.. or not.. depending on, if you belong to our family.

The tour guide looked at San and the girls and shook her head. My guess was she was thinking "if you girls dress like this to Vatican, what do you wear at home? do you wear anything at all?" and my answer would have been "I have been married to this woman for 19 years and I have seen her ankles only three times in public and her knees once when she came to our Christian friends wedding in Napa. she is usually covered head to toe and gives middle eastern burka wearing woman feeling under clothed!"..

Anyways, I don't know what got into San and the kids. They decided that given Europe was going to be hot and all we had was one carry on and a backpack each for this trip (to save time at airports), they packed and dressed "light". Short skirts and shorts everywhere for the most part. Out of all of those, they decided to pick the shortest for Vatican day. Turns out the Vatican has a dress code. No exposing shoulders or knees when going into the place. 

This was interesting because most of the tourists were stuck. This problem was solved by a bunch of African and Middle eastern immigrants who were selling scarves with pictures of vatican for anywhere from 10 to 3 Euros.. "knee cover. shoulder cover".. they kept shouting and were walking among the penguins trying to find their guides doing brisk business. We bargained with two or three of these fellows, found the LCM on the price (kids, note how math comes in handy) and got three of these. The boys just pulled down their shorts to cover the knees and started walking funny with a rap star gait! I now know why these rap star folks walk funny.. when you are constantly trying to avoid your shorts from falling off your hip, you walk like that!

Where were we? yes, Vatican..

We had booked trips on Viator. The tour guides were good. They had all the tickets pre booked and it was all "jump the line". Also they made sure most of our group was from USA/Canada and they grouped families with kids together. We had a 14 people group and the walking started. 

The Vatican museum is amazing. The Christian leadership went out of their way to create this place and they made sure it will be preserved well. 

We had seen a lot of stuff in Uffizi that was repeated here, which was good. We had already been conditioned on what to expect. There is a lot of history in this place... and also some statues that put the previous one in Uffizi to shame.. like this one..Take that Uffizi!

The photographs in Portrait format in slide show..

another slide show..

 

We went to the Sistine Chapel. Unfortunately there were no Photographs allowed. Some of the folks in our group were taking pictures by holding their iPhones at waist level. I thought that was not right. If me being a non Christian could accept the rules there and put my camera inside, these folks with their Crosses on their neck chains could have done better.. San told me to mind my business and we kept walking out. We also found that there were lot of folks who did expose their knees and shoulders and no one said anything. But the scarves were not exactly returnable..  I liked the ceiling but thought it was too depressing. Loved the ceiling in the Palace de Vecchio better. 

I did find a new favorite painter after this trip. Raphael! The one painting on a wall above a window where he painted a prison room with amazing shadows stayed with me for a long time. Pity this guy died young. His work was the best in that place..

The basilica is a completely different story. The place is well lit compared to most of the other churches we visited and I loved it. I like places of worship that are not dark and dinghy.. a place that can lift up your spirit. Saint Peters Basilica is amazing. I could kneel down there and say a prayer and feel a sense of calm that you get in some of the grand temples in India. Totally awe inspiring place.

Once we were done with the Museum tour, the Sistine Chapel and Basilica, the morning part of the tour ended with us in the open courtyard. That in itself is grand. (see the Pano pics below). The Pano feature on iPhone was best to capture these places.. 

this is a Vertical Pano shot by doing backbends.. 

We had a tricky situation. it was already 12:30. We were supposed to be at the Coliseum to find our guide there at 1:45 for a 2PM tour. Now that we knew that finding your tour guide takes time, we rushed out to the metro. It was a 20 minute walk. We took the train, changed trains, then went to the stop for the Coliseum. Our first thought was let's get there, check in with guide and hope to find something to eat. The kids were starting to strike saying "lets eat here and then go there". 

Eventually we ended up right in front of the Coliseum and there was a restaurant where we found food. They had sandwiches, fries, juice, etc.. so it worked out. The outside temperatures were close to 100F. There were no trees in the area. Mostly ruins for touring around. It is a good idea to have a hat or an umbrella if you are doing these tours in summer. We walked through multiple levels of the Coliseum with our tourguide Ursus. He was a family man with three kids of his own and given our group was just the 8 of us and a Canadian family with two kids and a grandma, he made sure the kids were the focus of the tour. They were all attentive and he was giving them a history lesson. The adults mostly trudged along taking pictures. 

The Coliesum in an interesting place. Human depravity knows no bounds. At least that was my one line takeaway after walking around this place and the surrounding ruins for almost 4 hours. Good news here? Free water fountains everywhere in Rome with great cool drinking water! 

After the tour, he gave us an option to continue on the other side. We said "we are all extremely tired. We will pass". Handed him the head phones and went back to take the metro to the hotel. 

A video to cover our Day 2 of the Europe trip..

We did laundry at a Laundromat near the hotel, the ladies decided their hubbies should get something for being nice the whole day and sponsored a Thai massage at a place one block from the hotel. I promptly got an allergic reaction from the oil the lady used for the massage. We ate a nice dinner again within a block from the hotel at a restaurant that played world cup games on the big screen. Think it was the Belgium Japan match where Belgium came from behind and won. It was a Monday evening.  After the dinner we called it a night.

We were going to go our different routes on the trip. We said our byes and it was time to pack up everything. The hotel part of the trip was over.

It was B&B time.. 

When in Rome.. get a mask

Don't do as the Romans do... you will likely die of lung cancer before you can see your grandkids. That was my first impression of Rome after getting out of the airport. We got to Hotel Canada which was a 10 minute walk from the main Train station in Rome. This was our only Hotel booking on the trip. The rest was Air B&B. We stayed at a hotel to be with San's sisters family who joined us for this leg of the trip.

The first picture in the blogpost always gets picked up by Facebook, Google+ etc.. so all these posts will start with my favorite family portrait of the day!

After a good nights rest, we got up for the breakfast which started at 7AM. Per San and Co-brother, the train was at 8AM. So we ate breakfast, had the kids put on sunscreen, took some photos of me doing backbends in the lobby and walked at a leisurely pace to the station and handed our tickets to the guy at the gate... all of which is shown in exhibits below.. (get used to exhibits for this series of blog posts)

He looked at us and said "Your train leaves at 7:54AM. It is now 7:56AM. It has already left! You will have to buy tickets again at that counter. There is another one that leaves for Florence in 30 minutes"

History has taught me many things. One of them is to not say anything about what has passed and just get to solution space. History has also taught me not to forget some stuff so it can come in handy for a blog post 10 years later..

History? There was a time when the kids were young and we were to go to Seattle to visit my BIL. We had booked the four tickets and let BIL know.. he looked at the email and told us he will be there to receive us at the airport on time. When we went to San Jose airport in the morning to check in, the lady at the counter looked at us and said "you are on a flight this morning, but it leaves from Seattle to come here! you booked Seattle to San Jose and back instead of the other way around.. We can cancel the ticket but it will cost you. There are four seats left on this mornings flight. Would you like to buy them?!" to which we replied "just get us the tickets to go there!" 

That experience taught me some valuable life lessons.. which came in very handy in the Roma train station. I told San to just go get the tickets and lets get to Florence! It was an interesting beginning to the trip. We are easily swayed by superstition.. first the delay at Zurich the previous day..then this delay.. was it a sign of things to come?! 

We got the tickets and were in Florence after a few hours. All was well again. Then we walked from the Florence station to the Uffizi gallery. Saw some interesting things on the way..we walked all around the Santa Maria Novella church

There was no paid jump the line tour as it was a Sunday and it was free for everyone. We checked out the line. Only 1200 people and a 2 1/2 hour wait.

So we decided to go to the Palace de Vecchio instead. This was another smaller Palace turned into a Museum but the attraction was the Vechchio tower which we had to climb at the end. It was an interesting climb and we got an amazing view of the City of Florence from the Tower. The paintings on the walls and ceilings just took our breath away..

When we came back down, finished lunch at the Ristorante Cavallino (really good food and nice ambience inside), the line to Uffizi was not that long.

It was a 30-40 minute wait. So we stood in line, got into the Gallery and walked for a good 3 hours through the gallery. Lot of great art work to take in that it was overwhelming.

These guys are marketing this all wrong. One of the galleries should be renamed as "Dickapalooza" and the other one "Boobfest". Those are actually apt descriptions..

We never realized Jesus was painted in this many angles by this many artists. Growing up in India and being raised on Hindu temple art, realized that Indian tempels have an advantage with many different gods, creatures etc. where there is a lot of room for diversity and creativity for statues and paintings. These guys all started painting when Christianity became mainstream and the Church allowed them to paint again (painting and statues were banned for a long time before the Pope realized that they were valuable for PR) and they had to paint Mary and Jesus with either Jesus as a baby, holding a sheep or being crucified. Given the limited options, they did an amazing job and I say that in all sincerity. 

There is a sense of grandeur that hits you in all these places.. lots of money and time spent.. Using my patented backbending Pano technology (I hold the iPhone and do backbends in every room to take Pano shots) give you a series of Pano shots in slide show.. which is probably why the family stayed clear of my sweat smell.. while all the tourists were really giving me "I am impressed" looks for my technique.

I would like to share two things I really liked in the gallery.. the first was one of my favorite paintings "the birth of Venus" and the second was a series of paintings by "the divine painter" .. they are amazing (see collage of all paintings)

There was only one problem with the Uffizi gallery. There were no places where you could just sit on a bench and give your tired knees a rest. So we were almost out of the gallery where there was a solitary painting in a round frame but with a sofa across it. The entire family crammed itself into the sofa and we were making jokes about how that should be named the best painting, just for the sofa. It was a painting of a father and mother teaching a child (not Jesus we were told).

A monk in a gray robe walked to the group and shouted at my co-brother "dont laugh at the cross". We were clearly not laughing at the cross. Where is the cross in that painting? We would not disrespect the cross. We go light candles in churches when we cannot find a temple to light a dia. So that dude was clearly having some issues with anyone laughing in the gallery. We walked around a few more rooms on the way to the exit in the ground floor and...

Finally walked out and wandered towards the train station. 

All the art that caught our eye (portrait format) is in this slide show..

Landscape format photos are in this slide show..

Stopped on the way at an outdoor restaurant and had an early dinner after watching some world cup soccer outside another restaurant on the way to the place..these were cheap restaurants which had folks outside trying to get customers inside with deals.. they advertised a full meal per person for under 10 Euros.. so we eenie meenie miney mo'ed and entered a place..the food was decent but the smoking was unbearable. Folks smoke right outside the place. so if you sit inside it is actually worse. 

Our train back to Rome was at 8 PM. This time we made it! 

It was a really hot day in Rome. My corn cap was still holding but the wife and kids complained that I smelled. It was like I was drenched in sweat.

A video to wrap up Florence.. 

Day 1, saw everything we had planned to see and had made it back in one piece. The next morning we had to take another local train to go on an all day tour.. we were on time.. no.. ahead of time on day 2!

To be continued..

A vacation of a lifetime

Last October my wife and kids declared that they want to see Europe. They were going to go with or without me. All I had to do was join them. 

Then there was the scheduling issue with me going to Asia on a regular basis. So it was decided for a lot of reasons to book a two week trip in early July. As usual work always made it more difficult. I had to fly back from Asia and fly to Europe the next morning with family. This was like a recipe for disaster with Jet lag lag..

San planned everything with help from the kids. They had selected 640 places to visit in Europe in 12 days and out of respect for the laws of physics and some constraints with the time space continuum, they zeroed it down to one city per day. 

Had agreed to join them as a traveler as long as there was no driving involved and I would do the same things they did. So the deal was on. There was also one other stipulation. It was summarized in a simple Tamizh phrase "poththindu varanum".. which crudely translates to "shut all your holes and come".. or in English "Not one complaint from you on the planning"..

So I did not complain.. during the trip. There is always the post trip blog for that..

Step 1: Fly to Rome via Zurich. The flight was great. Then we ended up in the Zurich airport for a good 9 hours because... 

So we spent some quality family time together at the airport. Took some pictures.. 

Then I got to work on a yoga photo for a good 3 hours while the wife and kids did their thing. 

Here is the end result. I had posted a smaller version of this before leaving because there was no single minded focus and attention to detail then.. 

The family was just blown away by my Photoshopping dedication. Hadn't left the seat for 3 hours.. it was me and the laptop.

Oh yes.. some pictures from the airport.

We then ended up watching the world cup game where Argentina got eliminated at the gate and eventually made it to Rome. 

When we got out of the Rome airport a guy said he was the official Taxi stand guy and said 60 Euro for 4 people. We told him the hotel already told us 48 Euro. He agreed and asked us to wait at a door. We kept waiting and the first thing that hit us was the Cigarette smoke. Looks like there are more lit cigarettes at any time in Rome than there are mouths.. after some time we realized he was a quack and we found the actual taxi stand. It had a nice label. Fixed rate, 12 Euros per person per trip anywhere in city! so we stood in line, got a taxi, showed the address and reached! The driver gave us a mini tour of sorts describing places as we went from airport to hotel. 

It was actually not bad. When we finally made it to the room in Rome at almost 11PM, there was a sense of satisfaction. We had made it as a family to Europe after three earlier aborted attempts!

It could only get better from there.. 

To be continued.