Dhaba food in Amritsar

Previous post in series is here..

We were about to have a late lunch after a lot of walking all through the morning. Walked through Golden temple, Jallianwalah Bhag memorial, Durgiana temple, then Gobindgarh fort and finally lunch at 1:45 in the afternoon.

Have already mentioned our first taste of Dhaba food (La Roma Dhaba which serves Maggi noodles that is apt for its name and the Shudh Dhaba right outside Golden temple the previous evening).

There is something to be said about the butter Naan in these Dhaba's. Just like the Sikh's go bathe in the water around the golden temple and come out pure at heart to worship god, the naan's in these dhabas take a dip in pure butter (I am sure there is a butter lake somewhere in that kitchen) and come out ready to make the hungry taster see god. One minute you see a bunch of naan in a basket and the next minute it disappears.. have never seen the kids eat so fast in my life! 

For the afternoon lunch we went to Bharwan dhaba. This one just one upped the Shudh dhaba when it came to the butteriness of the butter naan! it was spicy, fatty and just plain yummy. If you want to die happy, make sure your last meal is at this dhaba! 

After being stuffed to the throat with food, the waiter came and asked us about dessert. We asked him what was special and he knew how to hit my weak spots.. He said "we have mutka kulfi" and "phirini, which is a local delicacy".. we said "okay bring it" and there was a fight for the items across the table. It was that good.

We did however restrict ourselves to some limited sweets so we could move on. The plan was to do some shopping for clothes for the ladies and then go for a break at the hotel and if weather permitted, go see Sadda Pind. We were up for an interesting last evening at Amritsar. 

Durgiana temple and Gobindgarh fort

The previous post on this series is here..

There was a reason Amritsar fit our "trip within a trip" concept perfectly. You could cover all the attractions in the city within 2 days, provided you had a good driver / guide. 

We had one more site that got added. Gobindgarh Fort, which used to house the Kohinoor diamond, was open to the public after 157 years! We just were fortunate to be there after it opened.

We did a quick stop at the Durgiana temple, which was rebuilt to mimic the golden temple. Only the "willing to walk in the hot sun" subgroup went for this. The "rest" stayed in the Van under the shade. This temple also has a gold roof, silver doors and reminds you of how rich things were "once upon a time"!

Given Jr. had spent almost a month in India by the time we visited Amritsar, she had been trained by grandma to walk around temples. She was willing to walk in the sun and that to me was an interesting change! 

We spent a litle under an hour at the Durgiana temple and were off to the Fort. At first we were disappointed to learn that the actual fort was a good mile or more from the parking lot.

That meant half our party would refuse to go citing leg weakness and heat! Fortunately, one of the guards said that for a fee they can get us inside on a vehicle, provided we can wait for 10-15 minutes. So we gladly paid and took the ride. 

There were not that many visitors, it being a week day and we pretty much went through all the history of the place, watched a show in the theater within the fort, have San and the little one go on a "camel ride" and come out in time for lunch.

there were a few horses in the fort that were used to give rides. One of the horses was an albino (I think). It was beautiful to see..

and did I mention the "camel ride"? The little one for some reason, wants to go on Camel rides every chance she gets.. maybe because she missed out in Jaipur a few years ago... this time she was not disappointed!

The camel ride, short and sweet.. smile on their faces, priceless! 

Then there was a late lunch. That lunch deserves a special post in itself ! 

Golden temple by night

After visiting the Wagah border we drove straight to the Golden temple. We were told that the temple is open 24 hours a day and the view is mesmerizing at night. 

There were hundreds of pictures from the one hour spent in the temple that night.. but these three are my favorites. They go first!

We were not disappointed. Walking in through the cleanly swept roads was in itself an amazing experience. The cute statues gave the MIL and Jr. some ideas..

It was almost 9 PM when we got to the temple. The minute you see the temple from the entrance, it takes your breath away! We also got to walk past "appu bakers" and were giving the little one a hard time with jokes about her baking and staring a store there. 

There was a long line and the wait to go to the inner sanctum was more than an hour. So we took pictures and walked the outside perimeter. The standing in line would have to wait for early morning.

We got to see the temple again, bright and early the next morning. . . 

Transcending space and time

The first planned event on our India trip was to attend the arangetram of Kavya. I have never been to an arangetram in India, but have attended two dozen or so of these events in the bay area. 

It was a treat to watch Kavya dance. Sat there wondering when this little kid we are so used to seeing got so mature in emoting! The audience in India is more of an untamed beast. The average age of the crowd that attended was a good 20 years older than the audience in the US, which in itself is not a bad thing. They do not have bladder control though and there is a constant stream of people walking in and out of their seats to hit the restroom. 

So here is a tip if you are used to seeing arangetrams in US and you go watch one in India. Get to the front seat! 

We also got to hear a few words from the Legendary Chitra Visweshwaran on art forms that have gone to foreign lands and are kept alive and well. She talked about the challenges kids face both in India and abroad but how the parents abroad give that extra priority to keep things going to get to an arangetram or a stage performance and not give up because of "board exams". 

Thought of recording it, but then switched the camera off and just listened to her talk.

Hearing that I realized that we put our kids through a lot here in the US and they also push themselves hard because of peer pressure. 

Hoping that BB will post pictures or videos of the event in his blog. I am still getting goosebumps going back to that evening. 

Promptly after the performance ended, we ran out to find an auto! Yes, that was a real challenge as autos are not easy to find after 9PM in that area and we had to catch the first flight out in the morning to Mumbai! 

We had to transcend to another space in short time. 

After reaching Mumbai, our plan was to go straight to see San's cousin and her new baby! We had no idea that the supposed 45 minute commute will become a 2 hour plus ordeal! Lunch plan became tea plan and we were exhausted by the time we reached her cousins place. 

Then a cute baby made us forget everything! 

That was again transcending time. They say you can see god in a baby's smile! There may be some truth to it...

After another 2 hour ride in rains and traffic, we made it to the in-laws place by dinner time, and that was day 2!

Mumbai might drain faster after a quick rain but when it comes to traffic, it is a lot worse than Chennai. At least that was our experience. 

Will continue blogging after coming back. . . 

You don't decide when you go..

That was pretty much the summary of my conversation with my grandma. Spent an hour with her on the three day trip. Wish I could spend more time with her. Grandma never sat up and walked after her surgery more than a year ago. 

My conversations with grandma have the usual points (from her or me)

Her points :

1. Grandpa is gone. I have no reason to live. Just praying that God takes me soon. (understandable given she got married to him at 5, started living with him at 13, had 8 kids, had a long and happy married life for 65 years and he passed away)

2. the doctors did something to me after the surgery. I try to move my body but it doesn't respond

3. I am doing my best but it is not working

My points :

1. you don't decide when you go. 

2. as long as you are here, might as well try to do your best and do the rest room thing yourself

we have had the same conversation twice in the two one hour visits over last year and this year. 

She is still sharp and is probably the most progressiver person in the family given her age and situation. She always wants to know if the kids are still practicing music. Never asks about their academics or school.. Only "are they still learning music? are they practicing?"

The woman truly believes that the only thing worth leaving our kids is art ! Sometimes I actully agree with her. 

Hopefully, next year when I see her, she will be up and walking to the restroom on her own! She is trying...